I have all the head bolts off And all the wires and sensors and hoses is there anything i am missing bc she isn't budging.

Probably just stuck from the MLS sealant. You may need to pry on it a little.

I just realized your a 95. If you haven't been rebuilt before than you don't have the MLS gasket and the old one is probably just stuck on there and holding it together.


________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold


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Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

so just the top head bolts i think 8 is i recall i am in side now. But there all loose. There is no other bolts or brackets holding that sucker down. I'm going to go give it a whorl.

I got it loose but it is still stuck some where. the cam gear side is the side that is stuck. If some one could help asap so i can try to get her off tonight thanks.

Do you still have the intake manifold on the head?? If you do, then you may have missed the 2 brackets on the back of the motor. The brackets bolt onto the intake mani, and then down to the block. The cruise control vacume resovoir is connected to these brackets also, so just look for that thing, and you will see them. They are on the back of the motor, firewall side. If you have all the head bolts out, it should only take a light tap with a rubber mallet to break it loose. If thats not working, then you still have something holding it on...esp if you still have the intake mani on like i mentioned..look for the 2 black brackets..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Thanks man now that u metion it i remembered seeing them i will give it another try
thanks

ok how do i get the plastic cam cover off

You do have the timing belt off don't you?

You need the timing belt off, then take the bolts out of the sprockets into the cams. There are a few small bolds that ohold the plastic cover to the block. Once the side motor mount is removed you can easily slide the back side of the cover off. Once all that is out of your way.

Check your service manual for the procedure it shoudl have pictures, if this doesn't make sense. You'll need the torque specs to put the head back on anyway.

Una salus victus.
"Be like the cliff against which the waves continually break, it stands firm and tames the fury of the water around it" - Marcus Aurelius

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines, AFX 55mm TB (re-installed once exhaust is done, intake was outflowing exhaust)

To be fixed?: Head gasket... unless coolant reservoir is suppose to bubble, hmmmm.

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

I was going to mention the timing belt but I figured you had it off.

________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

I got it off but be fore i started i opend the lil veiwing door and cut the belt off bc i plan on putting a new one on. But the thing that was holding me back was the plastic shield or what use to be the plastic sheild i am either going to get after market gears or polish mine up. Thanks guys if u's wouldn't have helped i would be still out side not to mention when i came in the pilot for the heater went out so me and my bro had to light that back up. LOL

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G-NT.html

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

No offense, but it doesn't sound like you were prepared for this job.

Removing a head or doing a head gasket job is not the simplest of work. You need a pulley puller to remove the stock crank pulley to get to the plastic cover. There is no other way to do it. You need the cover off to get the new belt on. You need a torque wrench to put the head back on right. You can't do this job without a few specialized tools. A basic set of tools isn't enough here.

Una salus victus.
"Be like the cliff against which the waves continually break, it stands firm and tames the fury of the water around it" - Marcus Aurelius

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines, AFX 55mm TB (re-installed once exhaust is done, intake was outflowing exhaust)

To be fixed?: Head gasket... unless coolant reservoir is suppose to bubble, hmmmm.

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.