Ok, Typed in "shifter bushings" and all that really came up were post on short shifters, or bushings for short shifters..

So! my question is this...i know my shifter bushings are bad, or loose. When in gear, or in neutral, i can slide my shifter around ALOT. almost like im in neutral in every single gear. Car has 73,000 miles on it. Where can i order new bushings, and is it an install even *I* can handle?

Thanks guys!

first off, u have to take out your center console.... then take a good look at your shifter...

someone will post a pic from the service manual, but it may not be a bushing... u can get the "symborski shifter kit" from www.machv.com for like 35 bux, a good mod (i have em), but get em if u need em, or for performance..

im thinkin your bushings are fine... i think its the "cuplike" peice on the very bottom of the shifter assembly, part #16 on the diagram if sumone posts it... yoru shifter sits in it, and when u push or pull on the shifter, it moves in the cup, and you switch gears (theres a lot more to it, but bare w/me)... there are small inserts in the cup that fit around the bottom of the shifter to make it so it doesnt have a lot of play in it...

one of them may have popped out on u causing the loose feel in your shifter..

once u get the console off, u will see what's wrong..

good luck

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

vegasdsmr is correct ill bet ya. There is a little cup-like piece that keeps the shifter from sliding back and fourth like that when the car is in gear. If that piece gets rotated 90 deg from where it is supposed to be, then the problem that you are having is the exact result.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

You could probably get replacement bushings at the dealer.

There are a few folks on the board with a symborski shift kit. The kit replaces the factory rubber bushings with precision-machined metal bushings. Basically, the kit creates a very precise shift pattern and supposedly makes it feel like you're shifting a gated Ferrari or Corvette stick. MachV sells them.
http://www.machv.com/symshifkit1.html

I actually don't have this kit yet. Can someone please give a testimonial - good or bad?

EDIT: I take too damn long to answer these things. Vegas likes them, and thats good enough for me. I'll get it.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : Field SFC Hyper-R
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
14.76 @ 94.72mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

shifting is night and day w/the kit... just think 4 rubber bushings that can "give" compared to 4, or 8 actually, metal bushings that dont "give" at all.......

i think his problem rests elsewhere tho

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

Thanks for all the replies guys...

for $35 i might as well look into that shift kit. what have you got to lose really?

And, how do i take off my center console? I can only get so far when taking it off..like right before the shifter. And, if someone could post a diagram pointing to the part i need to adjust, with instructions on how to do it, that'd be great too!

thanks guys!

to take off the center console you have to remove the center plate surrounding the stereo and hvac controls, 2 screws there. pop out the ash tray and cup holder, 2 screws there. there are 2 more screws at the back end of the console, one on the driver side back and one on the passenger side back. take off shift knob (for 5-speed, not sure on auto) slide console up a little. you then have to remove a few harnesses/wires. 3 for the ciggerette lighter and one for the ash tray light. that should be it.

-Joe
___________________________________
White 98 Eclipse GS MT
Star Stage 2
*Stolen - 10/24/03*

The stock shifter still has lots of play even after you get some new bushings for the base. The base bushings might just fix the major problem.

Another idea:

You need to take your shifter off and check the inserts that fit on the sleeve bolt that goes through the shifter itself. This is where the shifter rotates forward and back. The inserts are a brass type of bushing. When they get old and worn out, the no longer fit inside the shifter lever hole. This will also cause extra slop as well.

Another idea: There is a poly/plastic cap that fits over the nipple on the right hand bracket. This bracket is attached to the shifter itself as I wrote above. When you move your shifter side to side there is a nipple on the bottom of the bracket that goes side to side with the bracket. This nipple has a plastic/poly cap on it that fits into a circle attachment thing of some kind. Take a look at how the full left cable moves forward and back when you move the shifter side to side. Look at the only place that the cable bracket and right hand mounting bracket come together. If that poly/plastic cap is broken/missing it will cause MAJOR slop in your side to side play. This will not affect forward and back movement. So if the movement can be felt in both directions, you can rule this out. If it is just side to side, look at this area hard.

I have had 4 different shifters on my car since it was new in 97. Stock, modified stock, modified 1G topspeed short shifter(do not do it)and now the B&M Edge ball bearing short throw two piece shifter. I also have had the symborski shifter bushings installed for a couple years.

The B&M kicks ass. There is not a better shifter on the market. All gears are extremely crisp and I never miss the 2-3 shift while drag racing any more. I can actually slam 3rd without the normal hesitation felt by other shifters....including stock. I installed this yesterday and used synthetic grease on all the moving parts in the shifting mechanism. Except the ball bearings in the B&M....they do not need it.

I finally found the combination that works VERY well. I also use a Greddy Trust knob and Eric Schmidt(2gnt) custom 2G short shifter boot(shorter than stock and narrower towards the top for a killer look).

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!