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You're right our cars with a manual are around 117-119 or so at the wheels. The way to get more accurate HP and torque numbers to the wheels would be to dyno on a different machine that would yield more realistic numbers.
Also, to answer the question you asked Stickman, I tuned my cam gears using A. information from the magazine that dynoed the cam gears as reported by DSM_Tuner, B. research and advice from a racing/engine expert, C. deductive reasoning...
and D. I use the drag strip as my dyno. If my times drop and I can count out the weather or launching, then I am doing something right.
DSM_Tuner called up the magazine to get more details, and he reported that the magazine tuners lost power every time they touched the exhaust camshaft. The settings the magazine used (damn which magazine was it? I keep forgetting) to get the dyno numbers they printed were +7 degrees advance on the intake cam, and they left the exhaust cam at 0, but the car did not idle too well at those settings.
Also, I did research on the subject of cam gear tuning (what adjusting the cam gears in different directions would do for your power band), and asked an old experienced racer friend of mine. For the intake cam advancing the cam gives more top end power, retarding it give more bottom end power. I need more top end power so I advanced that intake cam. The information I was able to find out, the advice I was given, and the results from the magazine seem to agree with each other.
And, I was given advice to leave the exhaust cam alone since it has the cam angle sensor on it, and the stock computer would be able to tell the exhaust cam is adjusted differently and MIGHT run in a way which will offset any gain tuning the exhaust cam would normally give (which, byt he way, would be changing the degrees of index inthe opposite direction of the intake cam).
And, once again, the advice I was given AND the results from the magazine that DSM_Tuner was able to find out seem to agree with each other.
Of course, I am assuming that the engine the magazine tested and my engine are similar enough where the same adjustments would yield the same results. I know it has been said every car is different and what works for one might not work for another, but I think that 95% of engines without internal modifications are similar enough where you can assume they operate consistently and identically, so a cam gear setting that helps one engine should help another. I think it is a reasonable assumption, and at the very least that assumption gives you somewhere to start from.
What I did was I advanced the intake cam about as far as I could go and still have a good idle (I could probably go further and still have a decent idle but haven't tried it), took it to the drag strip and the time dropped.
It was the only thing differnt about the car, so it must have done something as I've gotten the same 60' times before, and I've run on cold days before, but never saw 15.4s before.
"Tutto fa brodo."
Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH
And also a 2011 Ralliart
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It is the shape of the curve is what is important, notice the HP stays flat almost all the way to redline 
it has to go beyond redline before it drops off. I think this shows the mods are doing something, since there isn't a significant dropoff in actual horsepower until after 7000 rpms.
I'll get more power out of that engine, I hope 
