What is the highest Comp that the stock bottom end can handle? How do you figure he final comp ratio? I have seen under cut valves that increase comp .4 If I mill the head and change the valves and add 12.5 comp pistons wouldn't that be 13.0 or more? Wouldn't that be too much? I'm sorry that I ask you all sorts of questions but you seem to be the expert for All Motor performance. I basically want the most power that I can get out of NA. But it also has to be able to stand up to everyday driving and a 75 shot of nitrous a little later down the road. Thanks a lot.


KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Custom 2 1/4 inch exhaust
Empty Catalytic Convertor
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

hey man not who your lookin for but i say, if your gonna do it do the crank too you don't want high comp stuff on the stock crank that's beat get a lighter more rigid balanced crank. yeah it's money but at least you can trust it

The stock crank can handle it. The crank recieves the the power transmitted by the conrods from the pistons. And if the 600HP neon STOCK crank can handle it it cn surely handle high compession. The only thing being stressed really is the conrod.

Fast420:You have to consider 2 types of comression dynamic and static. The 12.5:1 compression pistons I would buy if I were going all motor but I would get the HC drag cams for that application AND the oversized valves(like from cnnp). The compression dynamics would change because the cams "suck" comulative compression maybe 1-2 points so running such high compresion isn't bad at all even with the valves and on 92 octane gas. In terms of figuring out total compression, well, it's all comulative. So 12.5:1 plus .4 plus head mill and you're up there in the 13's depending on how much mill. The engine can handle it if you run the high compression cams. At such high compression I would also consider an ignition amp and/or Apex-i ITC. Anyway after the cams you would be back down to 11.8, 11.9 or 12. I would only recommend 11.5:1 for daily driving. Daily driving is worse than racing so that's why I say keep it on the safe side or just retard timing if needed

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology: The Only Replacement for Displacement"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

> you don't
>want high comp stuff on
>the stock crank that's beat
> get a lighter more
>rigid balanced crank.

Well my stock crank is pretty new. The whole short block and head are only 1 year and 12,000 miles old. The only original part of my engine is the cams and the valve cover. Everything else was replaced under warranty. When I do all the engine work I am going to have the stock crank balanced and lightened. I wonder if there is anything else I should do to it to make sure it holds up.





KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Custom 2 1/4 inch exhaust
Empty Catalytic Convertor
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...