Since I am pulling the clutch anyway, I want to upgrade while I have it out... What kind of clutch should I be looking at? The two options I know of are the Hahn Stage IV Clutch (what brand is this?) for $742.50 or the Centerforce and a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel for $609.90 from Howell.
Any thoughts? My target WHP is about 350, but the car is daily driven.
#36458, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 0
stay away from centerforce if u want a lasting clutch , u can go non-modular order a aluminum flywheel and clutch for cheaper then if u roast the clutch it nly cost u like 100$ for a new disk , u could grab the pt cruisar unit which is pretty good stronger then stock for like 260$
im going modular because its cheaper in the long run =)
You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.
If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good. If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast. If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.
#36459, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 1
i dunno why everyone has problems with thier centerforce clutches....maybe they are morons and don't understand "don't use full throttle for 500 miles"...i followed the directions and now have 30,000 miles on my CDF clutch and its holds like a motherf*cker.....it usually helps to follow the break-in periods....call me crazy but seems like common sense to me, but then againm it also seems like a lot of people have trouble doing the simplest of things...so whatever...just don't knock it till you try it...
#36460, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 2
>i dunno why everyone has problems with thier centerforce >clutches....maybe they are morons and don't understand >"don't use full throttle for 500 miles"...i followed the >directions and now have 30,000 miles on my CDF clutch and >its holds like a motherf*cker.....it usually helps to follow >the break-in periods....call me crazy but seems like common >sense to me, but then againm it also seems like a lot of >people have trouble doing the simplest of things...so >whatever...just don't knock it till you try it...
or maybe they suck for anything over stock HP numbers. We've had 3-4 turbo'd guys go throw them like they were butter. You have a near stock hp car so thats why its working for you, hell a stock clutch last more than 100000 miles.
The HRC clutch is a Clutch Masters stage 4. That is the clutch that everyone around here seems to like, inlcuding me.
http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions 95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD 93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD 2006 Scion tC
#36461, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 2
The Centerforce DF is good for NA apps but will not work if he is boosting to achieve 350 fwhp.
If high boost and high HP levels are desirable go w/ Clutch Masters stage 4, you won’t be disappointed.
Low boost or lower hp levels the centerforce will work great.
HRC uses Clutch Masters. The cheapest place I have seen online is www.jcwhitney.com
There may be a site selling for cheaper though.
I’ve cooked both so I can knock them I cooked a Centerforce on only 9psi and I cooked a CM stage 4 on 18psi daily and 8-10 times down the track every other week.
If I had to choose from the two I would go CM stage 4 hands down.
#36462, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 4
I had a Clutch Masters Stage 3 and would use NO other clutch brand. I would go with a fidanza flywheel and a CM stage 4 non modular if the stage 3 had ever gone out.
#36464, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 6
you can get the fidanza flywheel... or if you are on a budget.. you can get the neon flywheel... it is supposed to be lighter than our stocker... you can find them dirt cheap too!
#36468, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 10
you also have the option of a fidanza flywheel and pt cruisar flex plate setup for no modular meaning u can replace just the clutch disk and not the whole assembly
its on howells website under neon anything for the neon will fit our car....same with pt cruisar
You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.
If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good. If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast. If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.
#36471, "RE: Clutches...?" In response to Reply # 13
knife edging a crank means taking it from stock(weightor making it lighter)) making the edges like knife edges or very sharp to slice through air with less aerodyamic resistance no we dont have this stock yes it is good when done RIGHT! it will also make your car rev likea *bike* with other lightened parts jsut dont have somone that isn't GOOD at it do knife edge work...
You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.
If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good. If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast. If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.
Search
Printer-friendly copy
1 User in Chat
I cooked a Centerforce on only 9psi and I cooked a CM stage 4 on 18psi daily and 8-10 times down the track every other week.
