Woo hoo.. this is another 2.4L question.
I know I read or saw this in the Things We've Seen Before section..
But I want to know whats needed for the 2.4L ..

I know I need the motor (of course).. and new motor mounts, right?

What else would I need?

I've been talking to the Neon boys, and they've been BSing around, so I couldn't get much info from them.

Thanks

And sorry for this dumb question in advance, I know it has been asked hundreds of times before.

~Tacoman

"Yes, I really do want to get banned. I no longer want to spend hours upon hours online anymore. This site is great and all, but I don't want to come online anymore. I suck, period. Ban me, please.

Thank you.

-Tahleel"

I'm not sure, but i think you will also need a 2.4L ECU... or does/will our ecu work? You've got me confused now. Damn IT! It's contagious!

**************
Fucking Kangaroos.
**************

search the archive thier is ton of info on there..........

96 RST: Star Performance stag
05 scion xb: bolt ons
92 nissan 240sx
07 toyota sienna

Im in the process of gathering everything to do this swap myself. What is needed is;

2.4 motor w/ removal of balance shafts
Modified 2.4 oil pan
Modified passenger motor mount
UDP
Cam gears
Longer downpipe
egr blockoff mod

Recommended;
Built bottom end(8.6 for boost, 10.5/11.5 for na)
Built top-end w/ either #18 or #22 cams

Hope this helps.

'98 Eclipse GS
AEM CAI
Apex'i N1 Exhaust
Energy Motor Mounts
Energy Shifter Bushings
OBX Short Shifter
APR Front and Rear Strut Bars
Tenzo Rear Lower Tie Bar

2.4 ALL MOTOR BEAST IN THE WORKS!!!!!!!!!

>I'm not sure, but i think you will also need a 2.4L ECU...
>or does/will our ecu work? You've got me confused now. Damn
>

The Neon boys didn't need a new ECU, if they had the DOHC, so I don't think we need a new ECU either.

I heard you have to modify the motor mounts.
I also heard there is a K bar or section that you have to modify.
Also, I heard that there isn't enough clearance, or some issue about clearance.

Can we still use our tranny? I have an AT tranny, so can I keep the AT?

Thanks

"Yes, I really do want to get banned. I no longer want to spend hours upon hours online anymore. This site is great and all, but I don't want to come online anymore. I suck, period. Ban me, please.

Thank you.

-Tahleel"

Did you not read my above reply? You use your stock ecu. The passenger motor mount needs to be raised about an inch, and your oil pan has to be modified to clear the crossmember.

'98 Eclipse GS
AEM CAI
Apex'i N1 Exhaust
Energy Motor Mounts
Energy Shifter Bushings
OBX Short Shifter
APR Front and Rear Strut Bars
Tenzo Rear Lower Tie Bar

2.4 ALL MOTOR BEAST IN THE WORKS!!!!!!!!!

I am sick and tired of this 2.4 bullshit. This is by far the most annoying mod that can be done to a 2GNT. Look in your engine bay. See everything? Well, that is what needs to be changed or madified to make this work. Sorry, but I just discovered yet another problem with using this motor, and it lies in the cooling system. I think I can figure out a solution, though. Friggin' 2.4 can blow me!
-=B-=

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

What kind of cooling problems?

Just want to know.

Thanks

~Tacoman

"Yes, I really do want to get banned. I no longer want to spend hours upon hours online anymore. This site is great and all, but I don't want to come online anymore. I suck, period. Ban me, please.

Thank you.

-Tahleel"

Cooling problems as in radiator and fans and what not are in the way...

'98 Eclipse GS
AEM CAI
Apex'i N1 Exhaust
Energy Motor Mounts
Energy Shifter Bushings
OBX Short Shifter
APR Front and Rear Strut Bars
Tenzo Rear Lower Tie Bar

2.4 ALL MOTOR BEAST IN THE WORKS!!!!!!!!!

Now there's the Bill I've been waiting to hear from! Man you can use any thin multi-row radiator and there are about 1 bejillion kinds of radiator hoses. You'll get it done. How close are you to having everything done and running? I'm in no hurry, but if you need something and my local junkyard has it (I live about 10 blocks from one), then let me know. I'd like to help see this work out so I can get on with the 2.4 swap(from hell). I do have one question about the cooling problem; if it doesn't fit where am I going to fit my turbo?

Shit is all apart. Typical...

Well, the cooling problems... not too big of a deal by themselves, but enough to add to the annoyance factor. The 2.0 lower pipe (from the water pump to the radiator) fits in the water pump, but doean't bolt to the block. No way, no how. So the 2.4 pipe must be used. This would be perfect, except the endtank/inlet on the 2.4's radiator must be on the passenger side of the car, while on ours, it is on the driver side (this is the for the lower radiator hose). So I figure that I can just run some radiator hose to the radiator from the end of the pipe's new location, but no. It is aimed right at the collector of my header. That just won't do. Rubber + header temp = melted hose, leaking coolant, and a generally unhappy car (followed by an even less happy Bill). So I rotated the pipe in the pump so that it would point straight down. This is fine, but now the bracket doesn't line up. So I bent the shit out of the bracket, and drilled a hole in a new location and told one of the two bolts that it would be living there, like it or not. Looks like it will hold, and it might even seal. So now, I have a lower pipe that is aimed straight down. I think that I will run a 90 degree radiator hose there, and put a 10-15" hard pipe there (whatever it takes to bet close to the radiator), and run another 90 degree radiator hose bend into the radiator. I will then make some kind of a bracket to hold the hard pipe to the side of the block. I think it will fit tightly enough to the block to make a turbo setup no more complicated then normal. In fact, with the way that stuff needs to be extended, a water cooled turbo might be easier to hook up then before. Now, for the last cooling problem, the 2.4 heater core pipe (the double pipe that wraps around your cylinder head) doesn't bolt up. Time to break out the 2.0 which fits nicely, and as an added bonus, even mates with the other end sticking out of the thermostat housing. However, there is about a 6" gap between the end of the heater piping and the lower radiator piping. Whooooops, can't expect the coolant to jump through the air into it's target, so I guess I need to extend that in such a way that it isn't resting against the header. So much shit left to do... grrrrr...
-=B-=
Stay tuned for more updates...

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

Get a big fluidyne radiator, Bill. Maybe that will solve some of the cooling issues? Bigger block = bigger radiator?




Lester Burnham

"Mine! 1970 Pontiac Firebird. The car I've always wanted and now I have it. I rule! "

It isn't the BTU rating that is the problem, it is the fitment. Speaking of fitment, screw this wrong wheel drive, I think I will go RWD at some point. I just discovered that the new 2.4 in the Jeep Wrangler (they call it the Powertech) is really a 2.4L 420a. That is RWD with a 5 speed option. That plus a nice tight read differential, such as one of the Toyotas... just a thought. Well, enough topic hijacking...
-=B-=

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

Doesn't the GS-T/X have the coolant end tank(bottom) on the passenger side?

hmmmm