So I'm looking at the throttle body and seeing if there is a Idle control screw - I don't think we have one. Then I noticed that the blade of the T/B (the metal piece that you pull to rev the car) was NOT touching the screw-looking stopper. I noticed this even before I put the T/B on..I guess they made the plate too big or something. So I think I'm going to make the spring on the T/B one more wind tighter to see if it'll push it back all the way. Anyone done this before?
Alvin
96 RST
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled rotors /
#34618, "RE: I think I found the prob w/ a vac leak" In response to Reply # 0
They usually don't touch on ARD's TBs becuase they use a slightly larger than needed butterfly. It doesn't mean the butterfly isn't closing all the way, it just means the butterlfy is closed all the way before the arm hits the stop.
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#34621, "RE: I think I found the prob w/ a vac leak" In response to Reply # 2
hmmm. I guess you DID find the leak. I had no idea that the bored butterfly plates were the wrong size. A properly sized butterfly plate will stick into the bore of the TB at closed throttle because of it's ability to make contact with the entire bore surface. If the plate that you got with your bored TB doesn't block the whole bore then A) it will never stick when it closes and B) it IS the cause of the leak. It really doesn't sound like that bad of a leak. It also sounds like our IAC compensates for it after a delay.
To see what I mean about the butterfly sticking to the bore try adjusting the screw on your stocker. The screw is actually capped at the factory after it's set so you don't mess with it, which you shouldn't have to because all it's doing is preventing the plate from sticking - it can be set once and forgotten about. Take the aluminum cap off your stock TB and mess around with it, you'll see what it means to have a perfect fitting butterfly plate...as opposed to an incorrectly sized butterfly plate(apparently like ARD and Howell's bored TB plate).
ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed power________Gude cams : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : Thrush glasspack suspention___BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!) shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns incomming___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : Jeep TB : Field SFC Hyper-R
#34622, "RE: Well ain't that a...." In response to Reply # 4
I'm going to go and call up ARD next week and bitch about it. BUt first I'll try and spray some carb cleaner on the throttle plate to see if it'll stall. Hmmm...I wonder if I can convince them to send me a 57mm for my inconvenience. THe thing that dumbfounds me is why do some folks have no problems with the bored TB and other do?
Alvin
96 RST
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled rotors /
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