I put in my 55mm Bored T/B from ARD a week ago and am still having that all too common lazy tach syndrome. You know when you put the car in neutral and your revs will stay at about 1.5-2k and then slowly come down. Also my idle is at about 900rpm. So I'm thinking vaccuum leak - but where? I replaced most all the vaccuum lines, tightened the two T/B bolts. The only places I think it would leak is at one of the sensors or they didn't make a good-fitting throttle plate. Does any of the two sensors require a gasket?? I know someone had this problem - thanks
Alvin
96 RST http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs
#34493, "RE: ARD T/B problem" In response to Reply # 0
You'll have that problem with almost any bored TB. I can't remember what it was like to actually have my tach drop to 900RPM when coasting in fifth...
Functionally, it's kinda nice. The revs stay up just enough for me to not have the engine torque when i ease off the clutch in first when going through the parking garage at work. Also works well in traffic.
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#34494, "RE: ARD T/B problem" In response to Reply # 2
did you notice any diff in power with it cause i put it on today (thanks optimusprime) and it ran smoother but that's about it also mine does the same about the rpm i asked my mechanic and he said it was normal
#34495, "RE: ARD T/B problem" In response to Reply # 3
did that happen when you put your throttle body in? i think our pcm adjusts the idle sorta according to the speed... maybe a new throttle body makes it a little more exagurated <sp?>, because i noticed that mine did the same thing, before and after i got my afx tb. if you think that's bad, take off your alternator belt sometime and see what that's like... hehe, i guess the pcm notices that there is no charge coming from the alternator and it thinks that the rpm's need to be higher, so it keeps it at like 2500 almost all the time, regardless of what you do to the throttle. it's pretty funny. anyways, i'm done now.
#34496, "RE: ARD T/B problem" In response to Reply # 4
Mine acted real wierd for over a week, I was frusterated and thought it was ARD's fault, but after a little over a week it faded away as quickly as it had came... So good luck.
#34497, "RE: ARD T/B problem" In response to Reply # 5
Which sensor has an O-ring and where? I thought it was ARD's fault cuz I could barely see a little crack of where air could go pass the throttle plate. I'll take out the T/B replace it with the stock and see if I still get the whack idle. I noticed a pretty noticable gain with the T/B..it felt lighter, throttle response quicker and boost stronger a good mod for $100.
Alvin
96 RST
http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs
#34498, "RE: ARD T/B problem" In response to Reply # 6
You shouldnt see any little crack that would let the air pass by the butterfly at idle. All of the air needed to run at idle should be provided by the idle circuit(IAC motor and passage). Try adjusting the idle set screw on the TB. It's a little screw that adjusts the butterfly angle at idle. It's only purpose is to ensure that the butterfly plate doesn't stick in the bore of the TB when it closes. Adjust it in until the butterfly sticks, then slowly adjust it out untill the butterfly doesn't stick anymore. The butterfly should look completely closed at idle.
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