Changed my clutch out Friday evening. Everything went fine until we were TRYING to stab it. I finally had to remove the side motor mount and the battery tray brace. She slipped right in after that.

The modular clutch weighs 24 LBS with flywheel.

Filled it with 2.5 quarts of BG and a bottle of Mitsu Friction modifier. Shifting is buttery smooth. I have had no issues using BG in my car. Just for the record.

I also installed a RRE stainless clutch line. Pedal modulation is super smooth. Spongey feeling is gone. I have much better control at slipping the clutch or partial engagement for the launch.

Whole job took me and my buddy 6 hours of continuous work. We did have it on a lift and all the right tools for the job. This was my first fwd trans R&R while the motor was still in the car.

There is also another clutch option from South Bend Clutch. http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ They e-mailed me the particulars and the DXD racing clutch (kevlar/brass modular) will hold 400hp. Not bad at $475 for a modular setup. They want another $350 to be built with a light weight aluminum flywheel. Not necessary IMHO. The pressure plate is only 10-15% more clamping force than stock. They get the holding power from the materials that they use.

I went with my current setup, because it had a 65% more clamping force with an 8 puck composite and metal disc. It is rated to hold at least 250HP above our stock clutch.

Thought I would throw another clutch option at everyone. We do not have very many to choose from that are performance rated.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

Sounds good.

Where'd you get it from (web site) and how much?

Now, we do have some options:

Clutchmasters, SPEC (or STAR), Clutch Dynamics (Courtesy of Matt), and now the options you listed above.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

Hell yeah! Now my decision is even harder to make. Oh well, you can never have too many options. Under $500 for a modular setup isnt bad. Now, this new clutch or CM stage 4 non mod??? Looks like I have some time to think about it, though

justin
**1998 RS w/ 5 spd **FOR SALE**
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/vdetail.jtmpl?car_id=117972723&dealer_id=&make=MIT&distance=25
&max_price=&model=ECLIP&advcd_on=n&end_year=2003&min_price=&certified=n&address
=43947&search_type=used&advanced=n

PROMOTION is one of our wholesale distributors at the shop. This is the only brand of clutch they carry for my car. Promotion swears the clutch is the sheit. My only other choice was from KEYSTONE and to buy a Centerforce DF modular.......no way in hell.

http://www.supremepowerparts.com/ is an internet base retailer and they sell the Proactive Stage 2 modular for $620 plus shipping. So $650 is a good price shipped IMHO.

I had mine sent 3 day select(had to come from Proactive first)from Promotion and it cost me $496 plus shipping. I rushed mine because it had to come from Proactive first and they do not drop ship. This is wholesale from a national shop only distributor. I actually spent $541(included COD charge)for the #27 pound double boxed package. The clutch comes with a factory throw out bearing.

If I was buying retail, I would have bought the CM stage 3 from ARP if I wanted to drop nearly $700.

If I was buying retail and only had $500 to spend, I would buy the South Bend Clutch DXD racing modular clutch. I have a friend with a TT Supra and he just bought that same nonmodular clutch. His is rated to hold 700hp.

After seeing a modular clutch and the light ass factory flywheel, I would stay with this setup. You will have to pay to buy a neon flywheel and then have it resurfaced anyway for a nonmodular setup. If you buy the right clutch now and break it in properly, you should not have to replace it for at least 60K plus miles of hard driving. If you drive many highway miles, it should last 80K or more. This is for the turbo guys pushing 300+ hp.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!