I'm in the process of replacing a cv boot. I'm to the point where I need to remove the cv joint assembly from the car. I've got everything done I just need to pull out the cv joint (half shaft).

It just wont come out. It pulls in and out 1/8 inch. I just need to pull out the cv joint. Can anyone help?

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

Yea, you have to work to get those off sometimes. What I did was put an open end 1 inch wrench between the tranny and the cv joint and pried it out with the axle inside the open end of the wrench.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

So did you hurt anything by prying in the joint? like the cv joint itself and the seal? and how was the install?

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

Nope, I didn't hurt anything. Installing them is a pain too imo. Its just as tough pushing them in as it is getting them out. Good luck hehe.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

I used a tire iron and wedged it in there and popped it out. It takes a lot of force to get it out. On the passenger side I had to hit the tire iron w/ a 10# sledged to get it loose. I was replacing mine so I don't suggest you do this cause you might rip them. Mine went back in VERY easily though. Just wiggle and turn while you push it back in.

*edit* BTW Matt's idea w/ the wrench is way better than mine. Less chance of ripping the boot.

Just in case you need some more help, I made a complete page about axle changing a while back:

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/axle.html


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Corbin
'97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi

There's only one thing that I disagree w/ on that page. I think it's 100% easier if you break the axle nut loose w/ the car on the ground. That way you don't have to worry about the rotor moving.

You mean with the opposite drive wheel on the ground and the other in the air? I originally did that, but stopped because I had to put a shitload of torque on that nut to loosen it. We're talking 350 ft-lbs or so. I felt safer not transfering that through the tranny to the other wheel. I wasn't sure how strong the park mechanism was. I was just more comfortable transferring it right to the ground. I'm probably too conservative.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Corbin
'97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi

No I did it w/ both wheels on the ground. BUT now that I think about it I have my 14" steelies on right now so I have access to the nut w/ the wheels on. You and most others probably don't when you have different rims on there. But like you I wouldn't try to break them loose w/ the tanny holding it. I don't even park w/ out putting the e-brake on first