I know there is an active post right now but I didn't want to hijack it because I hate when people do that to me. Anyways here is my story. Since the very first time I drove my car it has done this. The engine was just rebuilt and has never even been close to not having enough oil and the pressure has always been a constant 50-55psi under load. When I accelerate I get a noise coming from the passenger side it seems. It sounds like something tapping while spinning, like putting a card in the spokes of a bike but it's a metallic sound. It increases in speed w/ RPM. I can hear it up to about 3000RPM then the turbo drowns it out and I can't hear it. If I get on it I can't hear it at all. Only in like first and second under light load. I can barely hear it revving in neutral. It sounds to me like either a spun bearing or my EVAP thing. I need to know if the EVAP ticking changes w/ RPM and how the heck I can have a spun bearing already???

What about valvetrain Matt? Faulty lifters or broken rocker can cause a nice tick or rattle... Could be a good excuse to buy PT Cruiser Valvetrain. Something I am looking into with the cams putting extra stress on mine.

I'm sure there is some valve in the EVAP system... but I couldn't tell you a sound that makes when bad...

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

That could be. My motor is pretty loud even when warmed up. So something other than the forged pistons has to be making noise. First I'm going to do something to the EVAP to eliminate that then pull the valve cover. If something is bad should I be able to see it like something physically broken? (I know you can't tell w/ out seeing it but what usually breaks in there?) Or might it be like a faulty seal or something small like that?

What size injectors do you have? You can hear my 625's from 15 feet away!

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

To see if a lifter is bad, press down on the lifter side of the rocker arm while the valve is closed. Test as many as you can then rotate the engine and test the rest. There should be no play in the rocker arm while the valve is closed.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Gude cams : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : Thrush glasspack
suspention___BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000 : Rampage sub
incomming___lower strut bars : Jeep TB

95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
14.76 @ 94.72mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Ok I'll check those if the EVAP thing doesn't fix it. Also I read in the other post that spun bearings are loud. I can't hear my noise unless the radio is almost completely off.

Greg- I have 315cc injectors. I can hear them from like 5 feet away. It's definately not the injectors tick sound though.

If its a spun bearing, it will start off quiet and then get progressively louder usually.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

I couldn't hear either of my spun bearings UNTIL 4000 rpm or so. Ticking lifters make noise at idle though if that helps any.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - unknown
Project: Baby on the way


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

Never underestimate the exhaust leak.

Now, I use both a very flat NAPA exhaust manifold gasket and a stock triple metal layer one. The stock MLS one has the little indentions in them that cause the gasket to bend and in some cases contribute to an exhaust leak there since the HRC manny doesn't have the same curves as does the stock manny. Using the flat NAPA one next to the HRC manny and then use the OEM MLS one nearer to the head did the trick for me.

Before this setup, exhaust leaks at the manny were unavoidable it seemed.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

>>>Ticking lifters make noise at idle though if that helps any<<<

So are you implying that those probably aren't the cause? Should I still check the valvetrain anyway?

Definately check the valvetrain. From your description you have the sound at idle, so check those lifters.

If it helps the injctors sound more like a ticking, the lifters will sound more like a metallic tapping.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

do u still have the timing chain cover on? i had that problem and it was becuase me cover wasnt lined up perfectly so i removed it and it cleared right up.

Yeah the cover is still on. I'll check that too.

Last night I was testing it out. I was in 3rd at 2K RPM and about half throttle at it was making the noise. AS SOON as I let off the gas it stopped. I was still at 2K RPM just off the gas. If it was an internal engine thing (valve or rod bearing) wouldn't it make the noise all the time? Or only under load?

>>>If it was an internal engine thing (valve or rod bearing) wouldn't it make the noise all the time? Or only under load?<<<

Anyone know?

valve train noise will usually be there all the time, or mostly at idle. Internal noise, like a spun bearing, will get louder with increased load. In 3rd gear, at 2000 rpm's, there is a lot of load on the engine, and will make more noise with a bearing problem. Actually, in any gear at 2000 rpm's, the load will be very similar, and you should get noise in that rpm range in most gears. Try it out in each gear, keeping rpms around 2000, and see what happens

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)