oil pan
i know that our oil pan wont bolt up to the 2.4 block, and vice versa. and the 2.4 wont clear our exhaust & crossmember. so what if the 2.4 & 2.0 pans were cut, just under the lip(maybe 1/2" down)for the bolts, and the the 2.4 lip welded to the main part of the 2.0. its a shot in the dark. and if it worked, it would probably only work with the balance shafts removed. plus you would need to fab up a baffle.
if this wont work, when i put mine together, ill just make one of aluminum.

gt cruiser pistons
can we have the pistons taken off the rods, then put on backwards? i thought i saw it mentioned briefly, but someone said it may break the piston. that way we dont have to worry about hitting valves or having valve pockets machined into the pistons.

these are just thoughts, and problably wont work.

and can anyone give me the link for the hydraulic tensioner how to on the 2.4, i saw it the other day, but cant find it anymore. shoulda bookmarked it.

Dan
97 Base Dodge Avenger
aem cai, jeep tb, 17" gsx rims, tq mod, eclipse center console, shift knob, autometer phantom trans temp & a/f gauge

boosted by summer

>oil pan

TIG Welding 2 pans together could probably work well too without all the balancing shaft assembly


>gt cruiser pistons
>can we have the pistons taken off the rods, then put on
>backwards? i thought i saw it mentioned briefly, but someone
>said it may break the piston. that way we dont have to worry
>about hitting valves or having valve pockets machined into
>the pistons.

You can install the piston/rod assembly backward or not
But like I mentionned in the turbo forum a few days ago we may have to break them apart and put them back together if we want to keep the luxury of the oil squirting piston cooling system that is built in at the base of the rod

Alain

one of the 2.4 true pionners

When first talking to Bill about the clearance issues that was my first suggestion (cut the two pans and weld the 2.4 flange to the 2.0 pan) The problem is that our pan is made up of some funky sandwich material. Steel/sound deadening/steel. I really doubt you'r going to be able to weld anything onto that. Plus the 2.4 pan that came on Bill's car is cast aluminum. There's no way that you can weld aluminum and steel together. JT says there are steel oil pans on some of the 2.4 engines. Just find one of those and modify it to fit.

-J

There's my first 2.4 (RIP) and it's NEW steel oil pan. Just to prove they exist

Besides the different oil pans, the only difference between the actual size of the engine, is that the 2.4 block is 1" taller than the 2.0 block. So This requires some creativity. Either lower the engine in the bay, or use the 2.4 valve cover (bolts right up) and cut some hood bracing to get it to fit right.

I still think finding a 2.4 steel oil pan, then cutting/welding on that is the best option. Balance shafts will have to be removed, they take up a lot of room in the pan, and they are useless anyways

For everyone wanting to know more about what's involved, go to the "Engine Swap/Forced Induction Tech" board at www.neons.org/forums

There's a lot of good stuff over there.

As for the hydraulic tensioner how-to, I need to know what year 2.4 you're starting with.

Just think of it as half of an Eclipse with more power

Would the 2.4L Valve Cover fit on our Eclipse/Talon 420A? Since the heads are reversed compared to the 2.4L's and the Neon's.

Thanks

"Yes, I really do want to get banned. I no longer want to spend hours upon hours online anymore. This site is great and all, but I don't want to come online anymore. I suck, period. Ban me, please.

Thank you.

-Tahleel"

Well the eclipse valve cover fits on a neon, so it should

Just think of it as half of an Eclipse with more power

>
>
>There's my first 2.4 (RIP) and it's NEW steel oil pan. Just
>to prove they exist
>
>Besides the different oil pans, the only difference between
>the actual size of the engine, is that the 2.4 block is 1"
>taller than the 2.0 block. So This requires some creativity.
>Either lower the engine in the bay, or use the 2.4 valve
>cover (bolts right up) and cut some hood bracing to get it
>to fit right.
>
>I still think finding a 2.4 steel oil pan, then
>cutting/welding on that is the best option. Balance shafts
>will have to be removed, they take up a lot of room in the
>pan, and they are useless anyways
>
>For everyone wanting to know more about what's involved, go
>to the "Engine Swap/Forced Induction Tech" board at
>www.neons.org/forums
>
>There's a lot of good stuff over there.
>
>As for the hydraulic tensioner how-to, I need to know what
>year 2.4 you're starting with.


I agree, the neon forums rock for 2.4L swap infomation. I learn alot about the swap form that forum.

Wouldn't the smaller mod 2.0L pan cause oil starvation problems on the bigger 2.4L engine?

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>Wouldn't the smaller mod 2.0L pan cause oil starvation
>problems on the bigger 2.4L engine?

Yeah, since it won't fit, your motor won't have any oil in it since it won't have a pan

2.4 oil pans go on 2.4 engines. 2.0 oil pans go on 2.0 engines, and vice versa. We're not as interchangable as Hondas.

Just think of it as half of an Eclipse with more power

I know i found that out a few days ago, the hard way.

What i meant was that a 2.4L pan cut and the welded to be smaller, like the 2.0L pan, would cause oil starvation problems on the bigger 2.4L motor. Right? Or am i mistaken?

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