Hi!
I would like peoples experiences in taking out there 420a engine.
I am currently pondering removing it my self so I can more easily work on it, but I dont want to be stupid and not be able to put it back.


Opinions?

I just got done working on mine today. It's ready to pull tomorrow. Just gotta take the motor mounts off. It takes awhile to get all the wiring harness undone and take shit apart. It's really not that hard though, just time consuming. If you can turn a wrench you should be able to do it. The hardest part is taking the axles out but that's not too hard if you take off all the neccessary parts and don't try to shortcut (like me on the first one) I also found it easier to take the intake mani off first. It lets you get to that impossible tranny harness and the passenger side axle easier. Also the heater hoses and shift linkages are easier to get to w/ that out of the way.

you guys drop it out the bottom, or pull it from the top?



Lane Adams

stock 95rs=backroad rally champion

Lane Adams

1998 GST Spyder
1995 GSX
1995 TSI AWD

I pulled mine out from the top.

You are not your job.
You're not how much money you have in the bank.
You're not the car you drive.
You're not the contents of your wallet.
You're not your fu**ing post count.

97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
01 Audi A6 2.7T
01 YZF-R6

i just had mine out last week and it took me about 12 hrs to get out and have on the engine stand and totally disassembled...but i didn't pull the tranny just the motor.

and yeah..pull it from the top, just loose the hood, makes life easier.

stage 2 turbo and all that crap

Rent a cherry picker and pull it out the top. Not very hard just time consuming.

Pull engine and trans as one, lining them up on the way back down into the engine bay would be a pain trying to line up splines.

Una salus victus.
He will triumph, who knows when to fight, and when not to fight. - Sun Tzu

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

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