Hey,
Well two weeks ago I had this problem with my Check Engine light, it kept coming on and then magically turning off, so i thought it was a faulty sensor, but that week I had gotten regular instead of premium gas, well it wasn't a faulty sensor and when I put premium back in the car it turned off and stayed off until this morning when I forgot and asked for regular not premium at Amoco, and the light has been on all day, does this happen to anyone else? Thanks

I'd be really interested to know what code it's throwing. The owner's manual calls for 87 octane, and our timing curve is very conservative for 9.6:1 compression to make up for it. There is no reason i can think of it should throw a code based on what gas you run.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

The only time I used 91 octane, my motor blew. I think it was purely a coincedence but I only use 93 octane now. Maybe the 87 octane at your gas station is just crappy.

Jason
'11 Ford Mustang GT/CS
'11 Ford Mustang V6 6-Speed (SOLD)
'04 Nissan 350z Touring (SOLD)
'95 Turbo Eclipse GS (SOLD and will be missed)
'90 Talon TSi AWD (SOLD)

I had something similar happen. Only I always use Premium 92(93?) octane..

My CEL came on, and went off one morning, then the next day I went to Sacramento and it stayed on whole day. Knock on wood it hasn't been on since.

weather turning towards a storm broken down road continue on coexistance imitating paradise
unlike any seen moist has been dancing crazy overcast ash grey wording constantly pushing pulling pushes away

sacred? you really are?
m'not scared
then what are you?

drew back a rusty knife guilt ladle pour it on understand i burn inside how to get out of here how do you get out of this natures revenge nature
cage craving wonder the worth of it scream at the top of your lungs so many times tried not to wonder

While we're on the subject, what is the recommended octane rating we should get as a 2gNT? I've been using 87; should I switch to 89 or 91? Would that help increase performance?

Thanks

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS - SOLD!
2002 BMW M3 - Garaged for the Winter
1992 Honda Accord - Beater for now
Shopping for another winter car...

I use nothing but 93 for daily driving; if I happen to hit the track it's on race gas.

--
97 GS "Northstar White" - Custom (read: PVC) CAI, GS-T exhaust no cat, 8.5mm Magnecor

I use 87 octane in my Avenger all the time. Usually it is Exxon, but sometimes it will not be. I get 89 once in a while, probabally like one every month or two. Runs fine for me. No CELs and no problems at all. I don't drive it very lightly either unless I am trying to save gas.


-Nate



________________
-98 Avenger I4 5spd
-ALL MOTOR build up in process
-Mods: AEM Front Big Brake Kit, AEM CAI, Bosal Header

Next Mods:
Bored Throttle Body, Ported Intake Manifold

-Nate

___________
-88 Mercury Tracer 1.6 3spd auto
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header, Megan Cat-Back, Pacesetter High-Flow Cat, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator, Hurst Short Shifter, Prothane Motor Mounts
-All-Motor Buildup on the way
-VIS Invader hood, R34 front, Halo Proejctors, M3 LED Mirrors, Projector Fogs, Blue Heater Hoses

If you are nonturbo I believe that you are just wasting money if you buy anything above 87 octane since the car is set up to run that on stock compression and everything. Any differences would purely be psychological. Just my .02

Jason
'11 Ford Mustang GT/CS
'11 Ford Mustang V6 6-Speed (SOLD)
'04 Nissan 350z Touring (SOLD)
'95 Turbo Eclipse GS (SOLD and will be missed)
'90 Talon TSi AWD (SOLD)

sonicbewm is right. 87 is all you need, 91 or 93 isn't gonna do a thing for your car. You only need that for a much higher compression or boosted car. I've used 87 since I've bought the car. Don't waste money!

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

>sonicbewm is right. 87 is all you need, 91 or 93 isn't gonna
>do a thing for your car. You only need that for a much
>higher compression or boosted car. I've used 87 since I've
>bought the car. Don't waste money!


I 110% agree.

our cars will throw a code if the gas cap is not put on securly, maybe its just a coincidence that you put in crappy gas, maybe the cap wasnt screwed on correctly and when you put the better gas in you tightened the cap all the way down. or not just a guess

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

i always put 93 octane in my nonturbo no matter what. when i bought it the car was using 87 and it ran crappy.. it runs a lot smoother on 93

Travis
************
Blue 93 Talon AWD
Best Time 11.9 w/ 104 octane
-Objects in mirror are getting thier asses kicked-

I bet some of you have no idea what the difference is in high and low octane fuel , just that the higher the better. That is right sometimes depending on your engine. For those who don't really know, higher octane fuel just takes more energy to burn than low octane. It's more resistant to "preignition", which if you have a basically stock engine, especially a 420A with only boltons, you should only need low octane. Maybe try another gas station, cuz most places do put "extras" in their premium gas to get everybody to use it.
Just thank god it isn't $5 per gallon like over here!!


Black '98 GS auto
I-vers intake
Custom (home made!) ram air conversion
Front & rear strut bars
OBX fog lights w/ fog light mod
Illuminated tail mod
RSR rear section
JVC cd player
Kenwood components
Sony XM-250 amp
10" Polk DX sub

"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...it's more like a jar of
jalapenos.
What you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow."

"our cars will throw a code if the gas cap is not put on securly, maybe its just a coincidence that you put in crappy gas, maybe the cap wasnt screwed on correctly and when you put the better gas in you tightened the cap all the way down. or not just a guess"

mcgyvr

Is right you guys just dont tighten the gas cap correctly or tight enough. You gotta turn it like 4-5 times. When I dont tighten it correctly I get the light maybe the same day or a day after I put gas in my car and I put unleaded, as soon as I get of the car I re-open the cap an make sure it is closed correctly and the light comes off a few hours later or the next day and doesnt come back on unless I do the same mistake.



ECLIPSE 5 SPEED

ENGINE:
COLD AIR INTAKE/ AIR FILTER
INTERIOR:
KENWOOD SOUND SYSTEM
1400 WATT AMP
12" Pioneer sub
INDIGLO GAUGES
WHEELS:
16" CHROME RIMS

COMING SOON:
CATBACK EXHAUST
HEADERS
SPRINGS/SHOCKS & STRUTS

ECLIPSE 5 SPEED

ENGINE:
COLD AIR INTAKE/ AIR FILTER
INTERIOR:
KENWOOD SOUND SYSTEM
1400 WATT AMP
12" Pioneer sub
INDIGLO GAUGES
WHEELS:
16" CHROME RIMS

COMING SOON:
CATBACK EXHAUST
HEADERS
SPRINGS/SHOCKS & STRUTS

The same sort of thing was happening to me, and it ended up being the O2 sensor. The CEL would show up for a while then go away, then return. It started coming on more frequently and after I changed the O2 sensor it went away for good.

Autozone, if you have one in your area, will check the code for free and it takes five minutes. That would be the surest way to know what is alarming.

AEM CAI, AFX Underdrive Pulley, Greddy Header, Tsudo N1 2.5 stainless catback, Homemade groundwire kit
17" Fondmetal 6500, Tokico Illuminas, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, Front Upper Strut Bar, Baer Track System, Drum to Disc, RMDSM Anti-sway bars front and rear.

Thanks for all the replies guys... the error code that I got was from Jiffy lube and the code was P0134 - O2 Sensor Circuit No activity Detected (bank 1 - Sensor1) and in the Chilton's manual that code is Ho2 stays at center... what should I do now?? Are there any threads on how to change the sensor if it is the sensor, cause I know that it would be the heated one on the headers, right? Thanks again for the help

" Thanks for all the replies guys... the error code that I got was from Jiffy lube and the code was P0134 - O2 Sensor Circuit No activity Detected (bank 1 - Sensor1) and in the Chilton's manual that code is Ho2 stays at center... what should I do now?? Are there any threads on how to change the sensor if it is the sensor, cause I know that it would be the heated one on the headers, right? Thanks again for the help"

I found out this very same thing about my car last week at Autozone (My light has been going on and off for months now).

I bought the Bosch 02 Sensor (before catalytic converter) yesterday, along with some new Bosch Platinum 4's. I'm going to change the sensor tommorrow. I was actually on here looking for a write-up on how to take it off too. I've already been under the car, and the wiring of the sensor just unplugs from a plug easily, but the sensor itself, I heard, is hard to break loose from the exhaust. Anyone know what tool to use, and how hard it is to break the sensor loose?

Current Mods:
- Weapon-R Intake w/Hyper Foam Filter (Red)
- Weapon-R Breather Filter (Red)
- Tenzo-R Muffler
- Extreme Motorsports Strut
Tower bar
- Symborski Shifter Bushing Kit
- Stock Shortened Shifter
- Momo "King"-style Aluminum Shifter Knob

Lord Khan,

Yeah I justy found out that it's the upstream o2 sensor thats malfunctioning so I guess I have to buy a new one, where do I buy one and how much are they? Also which one do I buy...

I just removed my whole exhaust and the second O2 sensor was the hardest to get off but the first one was easy. What you need to do is go buy a $3 bottle of Gunk Liquid Wrench and spray it right where the O2 sensor is. Let it soak over night then take a 19mm wrench and try real hard to get it off without stripping it.

2003 Acura RSX Type-S
15.042 @ 93.06
Devon
Creator of one of the longest and most controversial posts in 2gnt history...
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=38&topic_id=112462&mesg_id=112462&page=

well my mom's J30 gets a CEL when I floor that sucka cuz we fill that thing up with 89 octane. It clearly sez premium fuel only on the cluster but she insists to put the cheap stuff in it. I'm guessing it senses knock or detonation and turn the CEL on.

Try resetting your ecu you may have spoiled you car haha, like it's used to using high octane now so if you reset it it'll learn again. Just a theory...

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

I didn't use any kind of loosening agent, I got out early in the morning after my car sat all night and it came off pretty easy. I used a an open ended wrench and a short pipe sleeved over it as a cheater bar. I reached it from beneath rather easily and without jacking up the car. This was on a 97 RS. Make sure you use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new one so it will be easy to remove later on. Mine came in a little "kit" with the anti-seize stuff.

AEM CAI, AFX Underdrive Pulley, Greddy Header, Tsudo N1 2.5 stainless catback, Homemade groundwire kit
17" Fondmetal 6500, Tokico Illuminas, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, Front Upper Strut Bar, Baer Track System, Drum to Disc, RMDSM Anti-sway bars front and rear.