I figured I wouild start a new thread since the other one was gettign to long.

So when I go to put the fluid back in where do I fill it up at. I am assuming its the last thing I do because if it wasnt it would spil out the area where the axels attach to it. Is there a place to fill it up at on top or something.


And what size socket is it ecliptrider?


And can I get the axels off without taking off the brakes and rotors by turning the steering wheel?


And what do you use to keep the flywheel from turning when i tighten the bolts on the flexplate?

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

ok the size is 32 mm it's a front wheel drive axle nut socket, 1/2 in drive fits late model honda and chrysler front wheel drive cars. it cost me 10.69 w/tax from discount auto.

the fluid is the last thing that you do, if you look in the fender well of the driver side there is a little plastic tab that pops out i beleiv it has an X on it. pop that out and thats the spot on the tranny to fill er up. i had to use a funnel and a secton of hose to reach it. if you have a long funnel or something that would work better.

i took the brakes and rotors off to take out the axle but you may not have to.... i don't know for sure bout that.

hope that helps



WTB----- Dodge Omni: condigion i don't care, clean title needed

mods:
star stage III clutch
gutted cat-cherry bomb-banzi muffler(thanks kris)
cai(thanks kris)
f/r upper tie bars
hotter NGK plugs
platnum plus window tint
all black interior
5 color indiglo gauges (thanks kyle)
stock RS rims painted black w/neon green calipers and drums (thanks kris)
altezas

stereo equipment:
old sony X'PLOD head unit
300 watt amp kit
120 watt sks power pro cheapo amp
12" kenwood wave in a custom wrapped box

future mods(in no particular order):
engine rebuild/2.4 swap
turbo.....
lower it
wheels
seats
exhaust
piant job
turbo wing
hood
body kit
neons all around
projectors
custom tail lights
better stereo equipment

>So when I go to put the fluid back in where do I fill it up
>at. I am assuming its the last thing I do because if it
>wasnt it would spil out the area where the axels attach to
>it. Is there a place to fill it up at on top or something.

Really, these questions are good to ask, but not really necessary. I know your wanting as much info as possible, but I swear to you, when you dig in there and start at it, you'll go at it like you've been doing it forever... The first time I dropped my tranny, armond made that write up that is on his site, i started out with it, for the first half an hr, then it all just starting making sense. Now I can pull the tranny in under 2 hrs... I dont know if that is good time or not, but it sure beat the first time cause that took like 6 hrs and quite a bit of frustration at times.

Back to the question, yes, the tranny fluid is the last thing you will want to do. Do NOT, however, even start the engine up without tranny fluid in it, even if its just staying in neutral, there is still bearings spinning around in there... There is a rubber part on the driverside of the tranny with it mounted back up, pull it out and fill through there. I used to fill through the reverse switch hole around where the battery is, not knowing better at the time, but it worked Just make sure to get the exact mopar tranny fluid for a nv-t350 tranny.



>And what size socket is it ecliptrider?


1 1/4''

>And can I get the axels off without taking off the brakes
>and rotors by turning the steering wheel?

yeah, once you unbolt a few of the suspension parts, you'll be able to swing the rotor forward and slide the axle out.

>And what do you use to keep the flywheel from turning when i
>tighten the bolts on the flexplate?

It takes a two wrenches and some finess. Once you have one tight, and you turn the flexplate, turn it as far as you can with that tight bolt still visible, so you can use one wrench one that, open end, and use another wrench to put in the next bolt.... and repeat

Or you can just get a flywheel wrench to hold the flex plate still

91 awd: 60-1, 880's, E-Prom, etc.
93 awd: JDM 6 bolt, K&N, full exhaust, Wally 255, otherwise stock.

R.I.P. the original "Factory Freak"
15.5's with short ram and catback only
1996 RS 5-speed

Sure, tell me that now... that information would have been useful A YEAR AGO! j/k.

BTW: my "transmogrification" as bill calls it, is complete. I am putting my tranny back in tomorrow or friday. But I am reworking some hoses and other shit i need to do, so hopefully by saturday or sunday the car will be back tearin' up the streets.

>>And what size socket is it ecliptrider?
>
>
>1 1/4''
>

well the tool i used was 32mm i'm lookn' at it in the package right now. i don't know if any other sizes will work but that one worked for me

2 hours for the whole deal? damn that is pretty quick if u ask me?

it took me 6 hours when i did it also. and yes lots and lots of frustration. especially when i have no 2nd 4th or reverse afterwards. make sure those u clips are holdint those lines tight.



WTB----- Dodge Omni: condigion i don't care, clean title needed

mods:
star stage III clutch
gutted cat-cherry bomb-banzi muffler(thanks kris)
cai(thanks kris)
f/r upper tie bars
hotter NGK plugs
platnum plus window tint
all black interior
5 color indiglo gauges (thanks kyle)
stock RS rims painted black w/neon green calipers and drums (thanks kris)
altezas

stereo equipment:
old sony X'PLOD head unit
300 watt amp kit
120 watt sks power pro cheapo amp
12" kenwood wave in a custom wrapped box

future mods(in no particular order):
engine rebuild/2.4 swap
turbo.....
lower it
wheels
seats
exhaust
piant job
turbo wing
hood
body kit
neons all around
projectors
custom tail lights
better stereo equipment

32mm = 1.25 inches

Thanks for all your help guys. I think it will go smoothly.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

best of luck man



WTB----- Dodge Omni: condigion i don't care, clean title needed

mods:
star stage III clutch
gutted cat-cherry bomb-banzi muffler(thanks kris)
cai(thanks kris)
f/r upper tie bars
hotter NGK plugs
platnum plus window tint
all black interior
5 color indiglo gauges (thanks kyle)
stock RS rims painted black w/neon green calipers and drums (thanks kris)
altezas

stereo equipment:
old sony X'PLOD head unit
300 watt amp kit
120 watt sks power pro cheapo amp
12" kenwood wave in a custom wrapped box

future mods(in no particular order):
engine rebuild/2.4 swap
turbo.....
lower it
wheels
seats
exhaust
piant job
turbo wing
hood
body kit
neons all around
projectors
custom tail lights
better stereo equipment

also you might want to use a fluid pump makes it easier

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?