I really need some help with this....ok i first got my centerforce dual friction clutch about 3 months ago, and ever sense them I have had nothing but problems. I got it installed and babied it to brake it in for the 500 miles. One time at about 250 miles I had to get on it kinda hard but as soon as I did that( i was in 2nd) it slipped so bad it wouldn't hardly go. So I opend the bleeder valve and fluid just shot out of it but then the clutch didn't slip anymore. I brought it to my mechanic and he said it was the slave cylinder so we replaced that and i finished braking the clutch in and it seemed to work, but after a week or so(after the 500 mi)i got on it and was slipping a little. From then till now it has just gotten worse to where I would have to pull my car over and open the bleeder valve just to drive my car. So I just replaced the master cylinder and it still slips so bad I can't drive the car, unless i baby it and not drop the clutch or even remotly shift hard. This is getting vary agervating and I have no idea what it is now. My clutch engages pretty close to the top like i just tap the pedle and it will shift...is that good? or bad? how do I adjust that? If anyone can help me with this please let me know......sorry for the long question...... THANX

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Your clutch is WAAAAAAAY out of adjustment. It should start to engage 1-2 inches off the floor. This is why your clutch is slipping so darn much.....it is not fully engaged.

Go back to the place that installed it and have them adjust the pedal properly. I would not doubt that you have fried lots of clutch material by now and I am sure it is extremely glazed over.

You can do it yourself if you want. The adjustment is just below the pivot on the clutch pedal. You want to retract the cable to make it engage closer to the floor. I cannot remember if that is clockwise or counter facing the front of the car. Look at which way the nuts turn and that should help you out. If you extend the cable you will make the clutch engage more up top. This WILL lead to a slipping clutch and massive wear.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

here is how i did mine..i intslled my own clutch and baby broke it like u did and when it hit 500 excatly i drove it to work and noticed that it was slipping like butter in a hot pan. any ways
if u follow the clutch pedal all the way up till you find a bolt with a nut loosen the nut and adjust the clutch from there till there is some play in the pedal right before it engages..email me if i didnt make any sense..
chaye21@aol.com

Alright I am really confused with this clutch adjustment..... If you are talking about adjusting the 12mm bolt that pushes in the pedel lower or you can loosen the bolt and make it come up more but this woulb just be like riding the clutch if I tightend the bolt being that it would push in the pedel. But I did read somewhere that on the master cylinder there is a lock nut and a push rod that you can adjust but I can't seem to make that work...maybe i'm doing that wrong i dunno(but i replaced my master cylinder and it still engages at the same point). This just dosn't make sense, why would it work fine for normal driving but as soon as I get on it it slips like crazy and will not not even hardly work right untill I go open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Oh and the piston on the slave cylinder moves back when I open that valve...kinda as if it was stuck between engaged and disengaged?????

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the locknut/push rod arm are on the 4g63's master sylinders. our are not adjustable. Our clutches are also hydralic and not cable driven (Deano) - there is no cable to adjust, you're just changing the edal height.

You may just have an adjustment issue, or it may be an improper installation.

My opinion on it is simple - CFDF clutches are crap and i don't recommend them for these cars.

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Dino-you are correct. I should have worded it much better if I was going to reply. The dude was not aware of any adjustment on the pedal and that is the only way I could think of to help him out.

When you do adjust the linkage, it will change the engagement of the pedal. Basically allowing it to engage just off the floor. I actually think the pedal might be adjusted all the way out and the clutch is being held partially disengaged, allowing it to slip.

This is the easiest fix I can think of. Btw: I have had to adjust my clutch pedal twice due to wear. The transmission was difficult to get into gear even when the pedal was held to the floor. I extended the rod slightly and all was good. Others say that we do not have to because it is hydraulic, but I sure had to.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

I had this same problem when I first installed my Centerforce clutch, although the problem was not with the clutch, it was the pedal adjustment. My problem wasn't the engagement point, it was the pedal travel. There's another bolt under there that acts as a stopping point for the clutch pedal. The further you screw in the bolt, the sooner the pedal stops. Mine was screwed in pretty far, so the pedal wasn't returning enough to fully engage the clutch, so it was slipping. Make sure that bolt is out far enough for the pedal to return all the way.

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So are you saying in the 420A there is no way to adjust clutch engagment? Also when I was talking about having to open the bleed valve on my slave cylinder whenever the clutch is slipping....that is the only way to fix it so i can drive. Also when I open the valve I can see the piston on the slave cylinder move back...kinda like it is hanging up half way between egaged and disengaged????? Any clue as to what this may be?.. i have replaced the master and slave cylinder?????

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Well, that is really jacked up if you have to open the bleeder valve and let hydraulic fluid out to get the clutch to enguage, cause I wouldnt think you wouldnt get any pedal with the pressure out of the lines... I dont know what to tell you... other than centerforce clutchs suck... i ate one up in around 5000 miles... as have many other people on this board.

well... right now I have a 97 talon in my garage that had an electrical fire but all the mechanical parts are good has 10,000mi on the tranmission and engine. so I am taking the engine out and having it ported and polished.. not sure what else because I want JE pistons and crower rods and a turbo kit from hahn. I will need a new clutch when I get all this done....what clutch should I get? Also what is the best turbo kit for our 420A HAHN or STAR or what?? and what else should I do to my engine besides port & polish and pistons and rods?

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