|
I unhooked the field coil from my alternator to th ecrappy stock voltage regulator from the ecu and hooked up an aftermarket voltage regulator (from stinger) set to 14.3 volts. My factory voltage was getting as low as 11.9 due to underhood temps sometimes, and my optima bettery DEFINTEILY didnt' like that. it was CAKE. th estinger regulator has pins liek any old ford regulator. it has an I,A,S, and F pin. Our alternators are coltrolled like 1907+ model chrysler alternators with the factory regulator coltrolling voltage by switching ground to the field coil. fords coltroll it by switching power. all I had to do ws run the field coil power from the ecu side to th A and S pins on the regulator (A is generally for battery, and S is generally for stator coil on fords, btu since our alternators SHARE this point, you can join the two). teh stator coil is constantly hooked up to constant battery in our cars. the F wire goes to the field coil power input on the alternator. this sends otu th evarying voltage. the negative side fo the field coil from the alternator needs to go to 100% ground now since it has varing input, so I routed that up to the ground bolt on th eregulator, and the factory switchabel ground from the ecu is blocked off. only problem is I have a volgate warnign light on my dash (like I need another warning light). I am going to make that a shift light or something. car maintains 14.3 volts now 'though, and runs GREAT!
A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............
A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........
|
Search
Printer-friendly copy
2 Users in Chat
