Or can I just unbolt the tranny and pull the engine out? I think I read in some post that someone had a writeup on pulling the engine. Anyone have a link to that or any tips? TIA

I can upload the pdf file to evulflea.com if you need that also.

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98 ESi
95 GS

A PDF file that has a walkthrough? If so then yeah that'd be great!!!

www.evulflea.com/2gnt/2gnt_420a_overhaul.pdf

Oh geez my bandwidth is going to get kicked in the ass. www.evulflea.com doesn't have near as much bandwidth as my others but the others are down so

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98 ESi
95 GS

If you are clever, you can pull the engine and leave the trans and axles in the car. It's tight, but it can be done. If course, the engine would have to come out upwards, not downwards.

Use a floor jack under the bellhousing to support and then elevate it. This creates the 'tilt' and clearance needed for the flexplate attached to the crankshaft to move upwards.

Good Luck with your 'Venger!
Bill Hahn Jr.

Bill Hahn Jr.
98 RS Turbo: 10.87 @ 136 MPH
HRC Stage V with N20
Nation's Fastest Street FWD 2G DSM
www.turbosystem.com

You may have to temporarily unbolt at least 3 if not all 4 of the motor mounts. Don't forget to unbolt the flex plate from the torque convertor, there's 4 bolts holding it on. There's a little access hatch under there where you can spin the flex plate around and unbolt each one as it comes around.

Here's pictures, no writeup yet...
http://www.signal11.com/~thedawg/car/drop/

i think it would be less of a hassle if you just take out the whole thing as a one piece take out the axles and lift the whole engine with tranny out. once its our unbolt tranny when u lower engine and when u put it back it will be much easier to put the tranny and the engine togethor, this way you wont miss any bolts..
i took out my engine by taking out the tranny and axles and then lifting the engine upwards and did the reverse order to put it back
but i think if i would have had help and hadnt done it by myself(yes non of my brothers help me, it was just me some tools my car and the cherrypicker in a dark cold and lonely garage,bohoo) any ways.where was i..oh like i was saying i woule have taken it out as one piece and put it back as one piece and not have to struggle with trying to make the tranny hook up with the engine.
but i could be wrong good luck my brave man...
peace

Thanks for the replies and that link!!! Now you say there are 4 bolts holding the flex plate to the torque convertor. I didn't know MTX had torque converters??? Now I'm giving myself 3 days. Is that enough time or should it take longer?

where you at man? I'd help and learn if youre around me.

nevermind, ohio, too far

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

I would say it's just easier to remove engine trans as a combo.

You could always get stuck with axles that have siezed into the hub and be lifting the motor of fthe axles (a lot of fun let me tell you...)

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Sorry, I assumed you had an Auto. You're right, MTX's don't have torque convertors And from everyone who's removed an MTX, I've heard it was easier to just pull the engine and tranny together. There may be some differences between the two, not sure, but the auto was definitely easier to pull just the motor.

So if I DO decide to pull the trans do I need to just unbolt the axles? I'm sure they're a PITA but basically how do they come off?

Drain trans fluid, remove hydrolic clutch, remove spinle nuts from axle separate ball joints, top one is easiest and allows enough movement of hub to pull axles. Tap the axle out of the hub... usually comes without a problem but I just ran into a set that had rusted, flast welded, whatever themselves into the hub. Take a crowbar and pry the axles out of trans, just need top pop the seal out. Pull axles and proceed with engine/trans removal.

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.