Well I got my AFX UDP last week ans attepted the install yesterday morning. I got the belts off just fine and then went to pull off the pulley. Man that thing is on there really good. I backed the bolt off a bit.and then put the puller on just like in the Chiltons book. I cranked on that thing and it ended up bending the bolt a little bit and still did not pull off the pulley. Somehow I even screwed up the first couple of threads in my crank because I couldn't get the bolt back in. I I cleaned up the threads on my bolt and in the crank with my tap and die set and was able to get it back in but I am afraid to try it again. Are ther any trick to getting the pulley off without screwing things up?

Also, if I ever do get the pulley loose do I need to drop the engine a bit to get it off?

All comments welcome....

Chad

MODS:
3" PVC CAI, GST Muffler, Greddy 4-1 Header, AFX UDP, 55 mm bored TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Corbin intake spacer, gutted cat, Apexi S-AFC, KYB AGX Struts, Eibach Prokits, Excel TZ-10 Rims

Yes you need to drop the engine a little bit, no sweat just use your jack and a 2x4 and put it in the oil pan, after that take out the engine mount right above the crank pulley, (3 bolts + 1 in the middle), after that slowly drop the jack you have 3 other mounts so don't worry it will not drop to the floor.

Yes taking the crank pulley is a @#$% but you will have to do it with a 3 jaw 5 ton puller rent it in autozone or something,

in the stock pulley there are grooves where the jaws go. (i was with another person) but make sure the puller is right in the middle and centered, if you start to pull and goes wither left or right or whatever, loose it center it and again pull. if you screw up the bolt (like I did) just go buy another one from satan like $10.

fernando_valdez@hotmail.com

I know exactly how you feel man. I went through the same problem about 4 months ago. I put the 3 ton puller on there and the puller it self broke before the pully came off. I tried everything, heating it up, banging on it really hard, you name it we did it. It would not come off. I ended up taking a drill and drilled little holes all the way around the crank as close as I could get to it with out hitting it. This weakened it a ton so I put on the new puller and that sucker poped right off. I would try that. Also, you do have to drop your engine to get that off. You haven't dropped it already? Undo the passenger side motor mount, put a peice of wood across the bottom of the oil pan so you don't punch holes in it with the jack and slowly let her down. Hope this helps.

99GSX Auto 14b@17psi 13.345@102mph

Thanks for the info guys....

It makes me feel alot better to know that I wasn't the only one with this problem. I was able to get the 3 pronge puller on there without dropping the engine. I figured I would see if I could move the thing before dropping the engine. Well I guess I will try again this weekend. My biggest worry is screwing up the threads in the crank. Oh well ....

Are there any issues with getting the new one on? Is it also just as tight? Should I throw it in the oven or something before I try to put it on?

Chad

MODS:
3" PVC CAI, GST Muffler, Greddy 4-1 Header, AFX UDP, 55 mm bored TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Corbin intake spacer, gutted cat, Apexi S-AFC, KYB AGX Struts, Eibach Prokits, Excel TZ-10 Rims

LoL, if you ever want to get it on there your gonna have to put it in the oven. It was also a pain but not as bad as getting the first one off. Put it in at like 500 degrees and watch it. 5-10 min should do it but keep your eye on it just to be safe. Grab that outa there and run like a motha to your car slam it on there. You might have to pound it a little to get it on. Good Luck!

99GSX Auto 14b@17psi 13.345@102mph

when we installed Don's, dudas, UDP we didnt have to put it in the oven. We were using air tools though. Hell the whole install only took 30min at the most.

Toney
'97 RS 5 Speed (totaled)
15.4606@88.42 Mph
96 Toyota Celica GT
88 Toyota Supra NA-T (w/ sports package)
Got Boost?? Hell yeah I-6 turbo powah baby!

Yep, it's much easier with air tools.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : test pipe : AFX UDP : ram air : Thrush glasspack : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000 : AutoCommand remote start
incomming - lower strut bars

95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
14.76 @ 94.72mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

>really good. I backed the bolt off a bit.and then put the
>puller on just like in the Chiltons book. I cranked on that
>thing and it ended up bending the bolt a little bit and
>still did not pull off the pulley. Somehow I even screwed
>up the first couple of threads in my crank because I
>couldn't get the bolt back in. I I cleaned up the threads
>on my bolt and in the crank with my tap and die set and was
>able to get it back in but I am afraid to try it again. Are
>ther any trick to getting the pulley off without screwing
>things up?

HEHEHE.. I have *ZERO* threads in my crank for exactally that reason.. gotta love these press-fit pullies..

What you do... go to local hardware store, buy a steel rod (harder the steel the better) that's about the length of the bolt.. Make sure the rod is the diameter of the bolt *less* the size of the threads.. i forget what size the rod is.. basically it should fit into the hole and bottom out on the crank, not the threads..

*important part* GROUND the end of the rod to a blunt point.. make sure you do this else when you put the puller on, the rod end will mushroom and you won't be able to get it out of the crank (been there done that.. it's a PITA)

Take out the bolt.. drop in the steel rod, put on the puller and pull the crank pully off..

you might bend hte rod a bit, but just pound it back straight..

Or you can do the $100 option and buy the snap-on neon crank pully puller (comes with a hardened steel rod to put into the crank)

Oh.. and when putting the pulley back on.. DONT POUND ON THE END OF THE CRANK.. you'll screw up a lot of stuff..

best way i've found is to clamp the pulley in a vice, and setup 2 propane torches (not oxy/acytelene torches).. takes about 5 minutes and it will go right on.. I've found baking the pullies at 500 degrees isn't that great for the neoprene ring that seperates the accessory drive ring and the hub.

ttyl

WheatKing

-- DSM Junkie --
4 - 1G talons
4 - Avenger/sebrings
1 - Jeep to tow em home when they break

use my writeup meng... u will need the longer bolt to get the last of the pulley off the crank, and to put it back on...

also, u will have to drop the engine to gain clearance for the inch or so of the pulley that is next to the frame....

good luck..

http://seangordon1.tripod.com

mods---> afx udp install

good luck

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

Not to mention that when we put mine on we had a few more ace's in the whole such as, A MOPAR tech, the MOPAR crank puller, the MOPAR press thing and the air tools. With the right tools it was real easy. Like Toney(1TuffRS) said the whole thing took about 30 mins start to finish.

Thanks for the info guys....

I will give it another try next weekend.

Chad

MODS:
3" PVC CAI, GST Muffler, Greddy 4-1 Header, AFX UDP, 55 mm bored TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Corbin intake spacer, gutted cat, Apexi S-AFC, KYB AGX Struts, Eibach Prokits, Excel TZ-10 Rims

After getting the new pulley started I used a torch on low flame making 4-5 quick circles arond the center hub being carful not to concentrate the heat in any particular spot. Then tighten down the bolt a few turns and repeat the process till the UDP pulls into position. Be very careful not to over heat and warp the pulley or the crank. This worked very well for me and I didn't come across any problems do to the heat. Just remember I think the pulley is aluminun and heats and cools very fast.


98 RS/Evo exhaust/gutted cat/p&p int. mani/bypassed egr/57mm TB/custom CAI/ngk plugs/AFX udp/fu,ru Stb/Magnacore 8.5 wires

98 RS/Evo exhaust/gutted cat/p&p int. mani/bypassed egr/57mm TB/custom CAI/ngk plugs/AFX udp/fu,ru Stb/Magnacore 8.5 wires

I got a little 10mm socket stuck in there once. Used it as a base for the extension rod. took 5 hours straight to drill that motherfucker one size at a time, then took a flat head and hammered at it trying to wedge it between the socket and the wall of the crank pulley. Soaked the inside with WD40 and Duralube and liquid wrench and put a drill in there. Drilled it in, till it caught the socket and drilled it right out. Thank god nothing else was damage. But as as long as you have an impact wrench, some kind of extension rod to stick in the hole, and the 5 ton 3 jaw puller, it should take no more than 5 minutes to get that crank pulley off. Once I had all the right tool, it came off like butter.

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