there is a drag race this friday and i am stripping my interior and i want to do any free or really cheap mods i can to try to get the lowest possible time... i have an ebay intake and an apex-i N1 muffler. i am planning on doing the throttle plate adjustment, what else is there that i can do?
thanks,
Dylan

~Sacred Imports~
-Boise Idaho-

the best is to strip everything on the car, for every 100 lbs you lost you will gain .1 sec in the 1/4 mile. take everything out you can including glove box, etc.. maybe even door panels etc...

Other than that you could maybe get a muffler shop to weld you up a test pipe and remove the catalytic converter and then do this mod to get rid of the CEL http://www2.cesa12.k12.wi.us/brent/personal/neon/pic/cat_resistor.html

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

I would NOT remove the cat if I were you. You arent flowing enough for the cat to be restrictive. The backpressure created by the cat is needed for the car to run right. And don't go stripping everything out in the car. Its not going to make you any faster.

>And don't go stripping everything out in the car. Its not going
>to make you any faster.

so your telling me that taking out 100-150 lbs is not going to make me run any faster, you my friend are a moron

~Sacred Imports~
-Boise Idaho-

First off quit the hatin', Fastergs has the fattest OZ Eclipse I've ever seen and knows a shitload 'bout 2GNTs.

Second, removing 100-150lbs MIGHT make you a bit faster. It's not gonna cut anything remotely noticeable off your time. Unless a driver runs consistant 15.0 second(for example only) 1/4 miles, there's no way to tell if it made him any faster. Don't bother.

Also, you can't make the statement "for every 100 lbs you lost you will gain .1 sec in the 1/4 mile." Based on what? Not every driver is the same, not every car is the same, not every DAY is the same, not every track/elevation/weather condition/LAUNCH is the same, not every Eclipse makes the same power; there's about a million different factors involved in each run. Not to mention you won't notice .1 seconds unless you run a consistant 1/4 mile, everytime hitting within half a second or something.

Oh and if you want help, I suggest you stop insulting people.

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

dayam....

wat about my OZ clipse??? hehe... weight reduction helps a lil, specially in highway battlz

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

Oh yeah, sorry Vegas, forgot about yours, you gotta admit though, FasterGS' looks so damn sharp in that sig pic. It's just so frikkin clean!


Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

Shit weight reduction totally makes a difference at least in my 1990 turbo Eclipse (full race car) it made a huge difference. But I removed everything, Both the front and rear reinforcement bars behind the bumpers, all the interior, all the A/C shit (A/C fan, heater core, condenser all of it), all the power steering shit is gone, washer fluid bottles removed, window whiper motor removed, anything and everything that was needed to make the car run has been removed. I saw a huge improvement, but then again I have gone to the extreme. I am in the process of cuting the reinforcements in both the driver and passenger side doors and plexi glass windows, also cutting out the back where the fuel tank goes (installing a smaller racing fuel cell, stock tank is heavy as fuck!) and using a thin light weight metal instead unless I might keep it open, I have to check with track rules but I am pretty sure it has to be closed up somehow.

But I agree if your not going to do it to the extreme don't do it, it's easy to take shit apart but it sucks to put it back together. My race car is only for strip use so it stays the way it is, shit I sold most my parts to people who needed them.

But I disagree with the comments about it won't help at all, it will help big time but only if you go to the extreme.

1999 Eclipse RS (all show)
1990 Turbo Eclipse (race)

...weight reduction plays a major role. It doesn't have much but every little bit counts. Just like a TB isn't going to make a whole hell of a lot of difference but paired with Weight Reduction, Intake Exhaust and headers it can be quite a thing.

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

Try running with no intake at all. You might notice a difference with smaller diameter wheels, if you can find some! A buddy of mine used to have a GS-T, and just tried a different tire and got tiny noticeable differences.

"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...it's more like a jar of
jalapenos.
What you do today, might burn your ass tomorrow."

Thanks for the compliments Damasta!!

>But I agree if your not going to do it to the extreme don't
>do it, it's easy to take shit apart but it sucks to put it
>back together. My race car is only for strip use so it
>stays the way it is, shit I sold most my parts to people who
>needed them.
>
>But I disagree with the comments about it won't help at all,
>it will help big time but only if you go to the extreme.

This is what I meant. If you are going extreme and leaving all the stuff out that you remove then go for it. For someone like me, I like having a backseat and the interior panels so for me it wouldn't be worth the hours of labor to gain a tenth or two in the 1/4. I mean who cares if you run a 16.8 instead of a 16.9?? Its still slow!!!

See thats the joy's of having 2 cars. I drive my 99 Eclipse RS on the street as my daily driver with full interior, then the 1990 turbo Eclipse is only for the track. Alot of people think I have alot of money cause I own 2 cars, but it really didn't cost that much. I just stoped putting money into the 99 Eclipse and before I knew it I had enough money to buy a project car to build just for race. Fuck it I was gettin to many tickets on the street I have to move it to the track. So who gives a fuck if my 99 is slow, it still has the looks to pull the hoes. The 90 is not so hot looking but it gets respect at the track.

1999 Eclipse RS (all show)
1990 Turbo Eclipse (race)

i even believe that we could have some nice lookin 1g's if we tried just a little. i mean get rid of all them ugly ass wheels, ugly ass paint scheems, ugly ass... you get the point. drop it right, the right wheels, and that badass turbo, oh look its a badass sports car. i wish i had one for a project.

well i just got back from the track...
let me just say that the interior made a big difference...
i ran 17.3 stock (95 degrees 3000ft altitude)
and i ran
60ft 2.39
330 6.82
1/8 10.511
mph 67.18
1000 13.634
1/4 16.2
mph 86.77

this was in 93 degree weather, and i also have an ebay short intake and apex-i muffler. and i took out the A/C and P/S. oh yeah, i am on some LOW performance tires, they are what came with the car when i bought it, they arent anything close to a drag radial, but i had some ok 60 ft times today

~Sacred Imports~
-Boise Idaho-

Actually, all season tyres are better to launch on then the fancy high performance Z rated ones. The high performance tyres do not have a lot of sidewall flex, so almost all of the torque applied to them is applied to the pavement nearly instantaneously. The lower performance tyres, with more sidewall flex can spread the torque application to the track out, allowing for a better launch, as the kinetic energy is converted to potential energy in the twisted tyre, which can again be converted into kinetic energy more gradually which is less likely to shock the tyre and break it loose.
Hope this makes sense to some...
-=B-=

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

Last time I was at the track:

Stock 16" wheels - 16.096 @ 88.07mph
Stock 14" wheels - 15.959 @ 88.61mph
14" & 150-200lb passenger - 16.020 @ 87.82
(the passenger weighs about as much as a full interior).

I'm auto so there's not much shifting variability.

So, at my power level
Changing wheels gave me 0.13sec and 0.5mph
"Removing the interior" gave me 0.06sec and 0.8mph

FWIW, YMMV.

That's not with a turbo right? With an auto your times are good.

MODS:

HRC 16g turbo kit, Spearco custom FMIC, Custom IC piping, VT rebuilt engine: Custom 8.8:1 compression CP pistons, Eagle connecting rods, Melling oil pump, Clevite bearings, 370cc injectors, Vortech S-FMU, Apexi N-1 catback exhaust, AFX UDP, Autometer boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge, Corbin's digital A/F gauge, Tokico Blue shocks, Tein springs (1.5" drop), 18" Konig Verdicts rims, VIS stock-style Carbon fiber hood

If you want a coupe of free horsepower for the track. Bump up the timing alittle and run some high octane gas. But you got to keep a look out for knock.
Also, you can get a shorter belt to by pass the A/C.

------------------------------

sounds good, can you tell me how i am suppossed to bump up the timing on my 96 rs?

bump.