Okay, first things first - just got a 420A head...complete. (If you think they are light - think again - this thing has got to be at least 45 pounds if you were wondering on shipping)

Next - can I remove the cams without doing pulling the valves too - and if I can - who do I send the cams to get reground (any recommendations and prices please)

Then - gonna be porting the head myself maybe (if not - how much is a professional job, and who have you guys used) Who has a link to how much they were able to take off of the head themselves at home - showing procedure as well.

Finally - the decision has been made that this car is never ever going turbo - I am gonna mill the head for higher compression - what are the dangers of this (besides having to run 93 all the time) and how much do I have taken off of the head - thanks a bunch for all of the help guys (Stan2gnt - you did this right)

2003 VW GTI 1.8t.. I used to have a 95 Eclipse but well...water sucks.

Please help.

2003 VW GTI 1.8t.. I used to have a 95 Eclipse but well...water sucks.

Read this very recent thread about the cams.

http://www.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID13/5246.html


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : test pipe : CAI : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000 : AutoCommand remote start
incomming - lower strut bars : AFX UDP

95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
14.76 @ 94.72mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Yes you can remove the cams without touching the valves. I recommend Crower for regrinds, if you do not want to go the billet cam route.

You mentioned porting/polishing the head. This you will need to take the valves out. You said you were going all motor, you want a very mild porting. Basically you want to gasket match intake and exhaust ports, but then blend them into the ports and just smooth. Try not to open up the ports too much, our heads flows very well. You don't want change the flow characteristic of the head drastically just massage them.

The best way to do high compression is through pistons. But milling works, I do suggest cam gears with the regrinds and with a milled head. This slightly changes the timing depending on how much you mill and you need to be able to bring it back, and tune the cams to their best performance.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.