I was woundering if you had to bore the walls or if you could just resurface them. I can get the howell 8.6 standard pistons right now but I dont know what my cylinder walls look like. They should not be to bad really because I only have 60,000 miles on it right. Well can I just have the walls resurfaced to smooth them out a little? Will the standard pistons still work if I do this or not? I really cant wait for howell on their .20 over pistons because I only have one car. This was just an option that I was thinking about but please set me strait if I am way off or not.
Thanks,
Patrick

Patrick
96 GS
13.54 @ 106.94 mph on 15psi 21 May.04
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

I think you should be able to. But, its better to do it right once, then having to rebuild it again if it leaks or something.

------------------------------

Dont worry about it. Go to your local pep boys or autozone and buy an engine cylinder hone tool. Get your favorite drill, and go to town.

I just honed an engine cylinder that has 120k on it, and came out great. Just make sure you lube that cylinder GOOD and frequently when honing with clean engine oil.

And you dont even have to take th engine out of your car, just pull the pistons/rods out.
_________________
Vinnie Lima
kiku@asog.net
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vlima@csc.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Thanks Kiku that is what I was thinking. My friend told me what honing is and that is what you said it is too so I guess it should work. I was just really currious if you do hone the walls, will the standard pistons still work or will there be to much play between the cylinder wallls and the pistons?
Thanks for the opinions keep them comming,
Patrick

Patrick
96 GS
13.54 @ 106.94 mph on 15psi 21 May.04
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

Nah honing doesnt take too much out. I just did this on a stock bore and installed stock mopar rings and they are fine. Just remember, the longer you hone, the more it takes out. Just do enough until the bores are uniform and clean
_________________
Vinnie Lima
kiku@asog.net
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vlima@csc.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

...when I 1st built my engine after replacing it for a spun rod bearing I installed eagle rods and pistons by pulling the cylinder head dropping I beam and oil pan. Tommyboy also did it this way to build his engine who knows how many times. It works

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

I talked to my mechanic and he said that the .20 over size are better because the cylinder walls are now prob. oval. He said honing will not round out the walls enough to make a good seal. That you need to bore the walls to get a good round wall for the rings to seal to. So I guess that I am screwed on waiting for Howell to stop fucking arround and get in my pistons.
Thanks for all the comments,
Patrick

Patrick
96 GS
13.54 @ 106.94 mph on 15psi 21 May.04
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies