On my way back from the Tri-State meet, my car started acting up. At first when I would let off the accelerator, the RPM would stay around 3 – 4K (slowly, very slowly, coming down). I assumed that somehow my throttle plate was stuck and pulled into the closest gas station to fix it. I checked the throttle plate and it was not stuck; however when I got back in and started the car it would turn over, but not start. So, I waited an hour or so and tried to start the car again and it started (with a lot black smoke coming out of the exhaust). I get on the highway to head home and around 60 MPH the car jerks three or four times, stops for a few seconds and then does it again. I let off the gas, to pull over, the RPM drop and the car dies. Now I have the car home; when I start the car it can’t hold an idle and sputters (kind of like the timing is off, but I checked it and it’s not). Plugs look ok (running rich), timing is on, and I have fuel and oil pressure. Any ideas?
#24480, "RE: Car won't hold an idle" In response to Reply # 0
The first thing that comes to mind is a carbon build-up within the engine. I think that is a relatively easy thing to fix(not too costly).
I also had a prob with my car not holding an idle. I ended up using the parking brake to brake and holding the gas pedal down just enough to keep an idle when i took it to Satan. They fixed it for around $100.
other than that, I dunno. Hope you find out what the problem is soon!
#24481, "RE: Car won't hold an idle" In response to Reply # 1
also check for vacuum leaks, especially around the intake manifold area, and also look ontop of the EGR pipe that runs behind it, it gets real hot there after awhile and it will melt your wiring, especially at the idle air motor wires. look there and make sure, it happened to me as well. another thing is water in the gas tank. some gas stations might have a water leak in their tanks and could get water. try putting STP water romover ,let it sit in the tank for a couple of hours, then start revving the engine for awhile to clean.
#24482, "RE: Car won't hold an idle" In response to Reply # 2
Well, I checked to see what codes my car was throwing; I get PO202 (CEL code: 27) Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2, PO118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input, PO108 (CEL code: 14) MAP Circuit High Input, I also have an PO403 (CEL code: 32) EGR but that is because I removed the entier EGR system. Last time I datalogged the car I was only getting the EGR code, now I get all these codes. I'm hoping only one problem is causing all these code (and not three different problems), but what? Any ideas? I replaced the fuel filter and put some gas treatment into the tank and ran the car for a while; I have to hold the RPM around 1500 to keep the car running and even then it coughs and sputters.
#24483, "RE: Car won't hold an idle" In response to Reply # 3
hmm it could be your TPS. Do a compression check also, this dude brought this 2k celica GTS to my house and he starts it and it dies right away unless he gives it gas. We checked all teh sensors and then finally I did a compression check. 230 240 0 240. O_o
http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr Who sez FF can't drift?
#24485, "RE: Car won't hold an idle" In response to Reply # 5
I had the exact same problem, i tried everything cleaning, bought new TPS and nothing fixed it, So I remembered Ryan with the grey avenger (Ryan95i4) told me about this thing on the throttle body, I forgot what it was called, AIC, or IAC something like that but it is on the throttle body and is the only other thing on there besides the TPS so I took it out and that thing had oil and black crap caked on it. I changed it and never had the problem again. So try that.
Mark Dollar Stage 3-4 Turbo See my White Avenger @ WWW.Armond30.com
Well I was getting most of my codes (except for the EGR and coolant) because somehow my top ECU harness worked itself loose. So, now I am only getting the EGR code (because it’s removed) and the Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input (PO118). The car will start and idle fine now, but my A/F gauge reads .80 - .81 and stays there the whole time the car is on (not cycling like normal). When I shut the car off I can’t start it again for a while, and it smells like fuel. So, my diagnoses is IF the A/F gauge is correct, it is running really rich at idle and when I shut the car off the it is flooded and that is why I have to wait a while to start it. My question, I have heard of the ECT sensor causing this type of activity (because the ECU never thinks the car is warm). However, I have to have an ECT sensor special ordered and I would like a second opinion before I order one. Thanks for all your help and responses.
Well I didn't want to point any fingers Good news and bad, good first, it was the ECT sensor and now the car is running fine. Bad news, I have a crack in my fuel rail (around the nipple close to cyliner 1). Oh well, it's always something.
I'm glad you found the problems, Eric. Any clue as to how the fuel nipple cracked? That's weird because Jay C. cracked the end of his fuel rail when he installed (I think) a fuel pressure gauge or something. Our fuel rail isn't very thick at all; it's just very thin metal
___________ Kon C
"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."
Well, here is a fix for the fuel rail... Solder it. Do it when the car is running so that you can see when it isn't leaking anymore. Just kidding! Damn, sense of humour goes weird at 2:10 in the morning... -=B-=
Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.
Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate. Me: Can I put that in my sig? Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.
Bill, thanks for the suggestion. Kon, I think I cracked my service port on my fuel rail when I installed an electronic fuel pressure gauge a while back. Although the stock fuel rail can flow adequate amounts of fuel, it is cheaply made. I know we don't have many aftermarket fuel rail options (Venom is the only one that comes to mind), but does anyone know of anyone that makes a quality fuel rail for our cars?
Search
Printer-friendly copy
0 Users in Chat
Good news and bad, good first, it was the ECT sensor and now the car is running fine. Bad news, I have a crack in my fuel rail (around the nipple close to cyliner 1). Oh well, it's always something.
Kon, I think I cracked my service port on my fuel rail when I installed an electronic fuel pressure gauge a while back. Although the stock fuel rail can flow adequate amounts of fuel, it is cheaply made. I know we don't have many aftermarket fuel rail options (Venom is the only one that comes to mind), but does anyone know of anyone that makes a quality fuel rail for our cars?