Why do most of you guys bore .20 when you do a rebuild? Is it because of the power pick up? If so how much power are you actually gaining? It would be cheaper to do the rebiuld if I don't bore the cylinder walls. Do you engine guys recomend that I do it anyaway? Also I called JE and to order the rings from them. I need to know the ring grove size or the thickness of the ring to order the right ones anyone know? Thanks for any help, Patrick
Patrick 96 GS 13.54 @ 106.94 mph on 15psi 21 May.04 HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies
#24007, "RE: Why bore .20 when doing rebuild?" In response to Reply # 1
Cylinder walls tend to become oval-shaped (not to the naked eye) after a lot of miles. Boring it out ensures that your cylinder walls are nice and circular and that makes your rings seat properly when you install new ones. (or something like that )
#24009, "RE: Why bore .20 when doing rebuild?" In response to Reply # 3
I am getting the howell kit but the pistons and rods are on back order so I am waiting on them. I talked to a friend today about this and he agreed with you guys. To ensure that the cylinder walls are smooth. Thanks for the feed back. Patrick
Patrick 96 GS 13.54 @ 106.94 mph on 15psi 21 May.04 HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies
#24010, "RE: Why bore .20 when doing rebuild?" In response to Reply # 4
Boring is only $10-15 per cyl (although people have payed much more, I checked about 5 machine shops). $40 hardly worth saving. Not that I should talk. I didn't bore anything. My engine block had about 60K miles on it but it was measured perfect.
:farfrommugen: Yes I still own a 2gnt. Damn right I've been here longer than U klassic_liven@yahoo.com
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