This is what all I had done.
8.5:1 Compression JE's, Eagle rods, total seal rings, .020 bore, all the machine work, mild port work on the head, New oil and water pumps, timing belt, energy suspension motor mount inserts, cluctch masters stage 4, and thats about it.

First off, why is my clutch pedal so easy to push in?

When I come to a stop the idle drops down and almost quites but comes back up to a rough idle, everything inside the car shakes and vibrates (lots of noise) when I am at a stop light just idling, other than that it runs smooth. What could be the cause of all this?

Then When I turn on the car I hear a ticking noise from the engine, no matter if I have been driving it and it is warm or cold it makes a fast ticking noise and gets faster when I rev. then quits after about a minute or two of driving. WHY???

Then My temp needle stays a the same point but when I pop the hood I get hit with a hard rush of heat like sticking your head in the oven real quick,,,,, is this normal or am I over heating and my needle doesn't work, I am talking it's hot in there..
They also put the orange antifreeze instead of the green that was in there.......anyone know WHY???

Also it is rough comming into first.

I am guessing all of thins is because of the NEW and low compression motor, and the motot mount iserts,

Let me know
Thanks I am sure I will have more Q's later.

Oh yeah breaking in the engine sucks........no Boost at all!!!!!

Mark Dollar
Stage 3-4 Turbo
See my White Avenger @
WWW.Armond30.com

Some/Most of the vibrations at idle are due to the Motor Mount Inserts. It takes a while, but you'll get used to it.


Thanks, Richard (97 ESi)
http://www.ourformerselves.com/richard/main.htm


BEST TRACK TIME -- 16.46 @ 86.03mph
----------------------------------------------------------

CURRENT MODS:
AEM Cold Air Intake || Magnacor 8.5 Ignition Wires || NKG BKR6EVX-11 Spark Plugs || Front & Rear Strut Bars || Eibach Springs Pro-Kit || KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks/Struts || AF/X Underdrive Pulley || Pacesetter - Monza Exhaust System || OBX Racing Sports - B5 Bomb Tunable Muffler || Energy Suspension - Motor Mount Inserts || Bored Throttle Body

POINTLESS MODS:
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Thanks, Richard -- 97 ESi
16.46 @ 86.03mph

http://www.ourformerselves.com/
http://www.cardomain.com/id/talonipse/

AEM COLD AIR INTAKE | PACESETTER 2.5" MONZA CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM | OBX B5 MUFFLER | ENERGY SUSPENSION FRONT & REAR MOTOR MOUNTS | 18X7" ENKEI RSF2 WHEELS W/ NITTO NT 450 215/40Z TIRES | GOLDLINE LOWERING SPRINGS | KYB AGX STRUTS | INGALLS FRONT & REAR CAMBER ADJUSTERS | ALPINE CDA-9807 RECIEVER | ALPINE MRD-M300 AMP | ALPINE SWR-1041D 10" TYPE R SUB | Q-LOGIC QLH-.6510SX ENCLOSURE | STINGER HPM 8GA AMP KIT | DAYTONA BLUE PAINT JOB | IMPULL R34 FRONT BUMPER | BLITZ REAR BUMPER | BLITZ SIDE SKIRTS | ECLIPSE TURBO WING | PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS (BLACK/BLUE) | EURO ALTEZZA TAILLIGHTS | STREET GLOW SG-201 NEO-BLUE NEON UNDER CAR KIT | SPAL AMENITY SHAVED DOOR KIT | REVERSE NITE GLOW GUAGES | OBX SHORT THROW SHIFTER | SYMBORSKIT SHIFTER KIT | AFTERMARKET BLUE SHIFTER | NOKYA FOOT PEDALS

>This is what all I had done.
>8.5:1 Compression JE's, Eagle rods, total seal rings, .020
>bore, all the machine work, mild port work on the head, New
>oil and water pumps, timing belt, energy suspension motor
>mount inserts, cluctch masters stage 4, and thats about it.
>
>First off, why is my clutch pedal so easy to push in?

ALL brand new clutches are like that. Within 100 miles, it will return to it's normal pedal pressure.

>
>When I come to a stop the idle drops down and almost quites
>but comes back up to a rough idle, everything inside the car
>shakes and vibrates (lots of noise) when I am at a stop
>light just idling, other than that it runs smooth. What
>could be the cause of all this?

Brand new motor, unset rings, bad compression from unset rings, and motor mount inserts. Wait a few days/weeks, once the rings set, this will likely go away. The slightly rough idle will probabaly continue (especially with the AC on) but that is due to the urethane inserts.

>
>Then When I turn on the car I hear a ticking noise from the
>engine, no matter if I have been driving it and it is warm
>or cold it makes a fast ticking noise and gets faster when I
>rev. then quits after about a minute or two of driving.
>WHY???

Forged pistons expand under heat to a different degree and at a different rate that the stock eutectic cast pistons. What you are hearing is piston slap. This happens when the piston and ring assembly is slightly too small for the cylinder bore; a condition created by design when using a forged aluminum piston application. A forged aluminum piston when cold is too small for the cylinder bore, (so when the piston comes towards TDC on the compression stroke and ignition occurs, the piston actually cocks sideways towards the exhaust side of the engine, it "tilts"-) but when heated from a running condition expands to an acceptable amount to fill the bore

>
>Then My temp needle stays a the same point but when I pop
>the hood I get hit with a hard rush of heat like sticking
>your head in the oven real quick,,,,, is this normal or am I
>over heating and my needle doesn't work, I am talking it's
>hot in there..

Normal. Underhood air is always hot on a turbo 420A.

>They also put the orange antifreeze instead of the green
>that was in there.......anyone know WHY???

They make orange antifreeze. Don't sweat it..

>
>Also it is rough comming into first.

first gear? You have a four puck ceramic friction disk clutch. This is normal, get used to it.

>
>I am guessing all of thins is because of the NEW and low
>compression motor, and the motot mount iserts,

That's a good guess, however, i am glad to give you some "been there done that" testimony to reassure you.

>
>Let me know
>Thanks I am sure I will have more Q's later.

More questions when answered build a stronger knowledge base. Bring it on!

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Hey thanks man.

I know you guys always say 1000 miles is good for break in, but my shop wants me to go 3000 for break in.
They also said after 1000 we can run like 2-3 psi but only after 3000 I can really push it.

Do you agree or disagree?

Mark Dollar
Stage 3-4 Turbo
See my White Avenger @
WWW.Armond30.com

>Hey thanks man.
>
>I know you guys always say 1000 miles is good for break in,
>but my shop wants me to go 3000 for break in.
>They also said after 1000 we can run like 2-3 psi but only
>after 3000 I can really push it.
>
>Do you agree or disagree?

I agree.. it's bad to push a new motor too soon.. it's NOT bad to push a new motor late. better safe then sorry.. and all of those phrases.

The ticking noise could be as simple as having a bum oil filter on it. The symptoms sound identical to what you described. Alot of these cheap oil filters don't have a check valve in them. This allows the oil to drain out of the pump and oil galleys. I'd recomend running the chrysler one p/n 5281090 before questioning the engine work.
Doug

If this is true about the oil filter, then that sounds like the problem, because if I turn the car off for about 5 mins, the piston should still be hot enough to still be expanded huh...well I start her back up it does the ticking noise again, like real fast and gets faster with revs. Which makes me think it's not the piston slap, because I wouldn't think that 5 mins would be enough time for a piston to cool enough to shrink back up...???????????

Thanks

Mark Dollar
Stage 3-4 Turbo
See my White Avenger @
WWW.Armond30.com

probably lifter tick waiting for the oil to get up to the rocker arms. if it goes away shortly after starting.

All the "symptoms" you discribed are all normal. The JE Pistons will always make that ticking/slapping sound, even after the engine is warmed up, but it's worse when the engine is cold. The way that new Clutch Masters feels is also normal. After about 50-100 miles, it does return to approximately stock pedal feel. For a stage iv clutch, I was surprised to discover that pedal pressure isn't very heavy at all, as compared to an ACT2100, for example. And, the engine vibration is caused from the motor mount inserts. Since it's stiff, it doesn't allow the engine to "dissipate" as much vibration at the mount, so most of the vibration travels throughout the whole car.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."