I was looking for install instructions and the only i can find are for an electrical gauge. Which leads me to believe i should have bought an electrical gauges instead of the mechanical one I bought. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx

in theory you can, but I would advise aginst running live oil lines into the cabin of your car.

same goes for fuel lines. Elecrical are safer than mechanical (unless boost).

-K-

either way electric or mechanical heres what you need. see up at the top right corner ? thats a earls fuel distribution block I tried to get a close up of it but it didnt work sorry late mike

stage BIG custom mj racing turbo set up, built block.worked head,all tial components, hks evcez,spearco 992,oh yeah and a huge bottle in the trunk last run all turbo 13.8@108 no nos dyno'd at AEBS in Cali with 300+ hp to the wheels

If you use an mechanical oil or fuel gauge you either need to purchase and isolator to prevent fluid lines from entering the interior or mount them outside the interior.

:farfrommugen:
Yes I still own a 2gnt.
Damn right I've been here longer than U
klassic_liven@yahoo.com

I've had a machanical oil pressure gauge hooked up to mine for a while, as long as you run the line away from sharp objects that will eventually cut through it, I have my oil pressure line in a wire loom in the engine bay. Then in the compartment. Haven't had a problem with it.

And mechanical pressure gauges react faster than their electrical couterparts.

Una salus victus.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

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I had a mechanical gauge but I sold it to kyle, fast420a, i got a electrical gauge, it doesnt respond quite as fast, but still is good... only thing i have noticed is the fugger doesnt work... it shows idle press, but it never gets about 50psi while getting on it, i know its not the engine cause the mechanical gauge used to go higher... I guess i will double check the wiring, its pretty strange..

I have the mechanical gauge in the car with no problems at all. Just teflon paste everything and tighten it well and you don't have to worry about it. I have heard too many problems with people's electrical senders going bad a LOT so I went mechanical.



________________________________________________________________________________________
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Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

I'm not sure if my electrical sender is bad or if it is my wiring because it works just fine until I go WOT and at 6000rpms it jumps from 71 psi to max.

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98 ESi
95 GS

well, mine was working today. whoohoo