I have 95 Talon NT and I am putting the Hahn stage 2 with front mount on it. There is only 45000 miles on it and I hope the compression is still good. If not, I wanna get the bottom end kit from Howell Automotive...will the bottom end kit alone make the compression like a new car??? I obviously havent tested the compression yet and what are some numbers that I would need to get the Hahn kit without the rebuild? What are the numbers I should expect from a 95 with 45k if its possible to guess before doing it?? Thanks for your help. I hope this hasnt been asked a million times cause I couldnt find it anywhere.
Matt

The numbers should be between like 170 and 210, but they should all be within 15%, You should be fine.

I would go ahead and get the stage II and just boost on stock engine untile it blows then rebuild, why rebuild now?
Just boost and save so when it does if it does blow you will be ready.

Mark Dollar
Stage 3-4 Turbo
See my White Avenger @
WWW.Armond30.com

well you'd idealy want anything from 180-210 compression wise. anything less you'd wanna think about the bottom end. just remember there is much more than just the 1100 for the kit, like machine work, other gaskets, seals, lost bolts and not to mention down time.

as far as the compression goes, it won't be what the stock numbers are because of the different compression ratios. however, it will be like having a brand new bottom end...only stronger. do a compression check and then decide what you want out of your car...and poof! answe

stage 2 turbo and all that crap

Thanks for the help guys..DSMARK, I would have to buy more than just the bottom end kit from Howell? What else would I have to buy to be safe?
Matt

>Thanks for the help guys..DSMARK, I would have to buy more
>than just the bottom end kit from Howell? What else would I
>have to buy to be safe?
>Matt


You don't have to buy anything else, he was talking about actually doing the work, machining the block, changing all the gaskets necesary, and any nut and bolt that my get lost in the process, i don't know how much of a mechanic are you but, it would be a hell lot of experience (and way cheaper too), if you could take out your engine, and deliver it to the person that would do the job.

fernando_valdez@hotmail.com

exactly...i just did it myself and you always run into something you don't see at first. you might want it bored if the cylinder walls are scored, you should have the crank polished, the head resurfaced, new vavle seals, valve seats, lots of stuff like that that should be done while u are there. i mean it does take a lot of time and money to get the motor out and while its out take advantage of that, like maybe replacing the clutch or something, 4 bolts and your done..where if you had to do it in the car would cost you 700 bucks for clutch and labor. just get what you need done right so you don;t have to do it again. use new gaskets up top (intake exhaust head) make sure injector seals are ok, clean the tb and block off the freekin egr...haha. do it once right:)

mark

stage 2 turbo and all that crap

Generally, if I rebuild the bottom end, i am gonna rework it throughout... if its all apart, you might as well do it right.. or you will be pissed when you have silly probs after dropping so much $$$