Essentialy my question is this: with the crank @ TDC are my cams in time, with the timing marks facing eachother but off maybe a 1/16th from being perfectly in line with eachother? They are centerline as well. If so, i dont see how to get them perfect. TIA

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Get them as close as you can. I remember re-running that T-belt about 10 times before I thought everything was set right. I think that my timings marks lined up "almost" perfectly. You just have to get them as close as possible. There are manufacturing tolerances on every part involved. I don't think you can expect them to line up perfectly.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Corbin
'97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi

thanks corbin, i needed to hear that. (see post in general)

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

I used some White out to highlite the cam marks. THis is most important there must not be any t. belt slack starting from exhasut cam to water pump and crank pulley. Most of it will be taken from the tension pulley. as a saftey precaution and timing check, I rotated the crank by hand to see if the t marks aligned. Yeah the t belt instal is a b^&ch. It took me 12 times to get it right.

yeah, its kinda hard to explain, but when setting the timing belt marks, you line up the cam marks, and you have to have the little arrow mark on the crank pulley about a half notch before the mark on the block. So just line up your crank timing marks. Now get the mark on the crank pulley a half notch before the mark on the block. You want it to go towards the firewall if you are looking at it from the passenger side of the motor. So when you tighten the tensioner, the belt will pull the marks back into perfect allignment. You need that initial half notch setting to make up for the slack in the belt when setting the tension on the tensioner pulley when tightening down the tensioner. Its just kinda hard to explain this, but it took me a few times to get it right...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
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-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
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-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

It can be done. Get the crank aligned right. The pull the bent and get tension on the belt on th efront side and align the cam gears and wrap the belt around with the slack on the belt on th eback side of the motor. The tension the bel;t and everythign should be aligned.

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Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

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everything XtremeRS said is correct. and everything should be ok. Only took me 2 times beacuse I didnt know witch way to turn the crank. Just after you get it all done let you engine run for a while and see if you get a code. If you do then your off.

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX