I've noticed lately that it's getting to be a little bit of resistance sometimes when shifting into second and third gear. I went racing tonight, and found that my car will not go into 3rd gear when I redline 2nd. I think it did the same with 4th gear when I redlined 3rd one of the times. Is this just a tranny fluid problem, or do you guys think it may be more serious? I'm finding myself starting to grind the gears more cause I can't get it in gear fast enough when I shift fast.

BTW, my car has 66,000 miles, and neither the tranny, or clutch fluid has been changed yet.

Current Mods:
- Weapon-R Intake w/Hyper Foam Filter (Red)
- Weapon-R Breather Filter (Red)
- Tenzo-R Muffler
- Extreme Motorsports Strut
Tower bar
- Symborski Shifter Bushing Kit
- Stock Shortened Shifter
- Momo "King"-style Aluminum Shifter Knob

You should be able to shift at low RPMs but not at hi. Get a new one. When my clutch went out I couldn't even start my car.

ALvin

Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Yeah, I can shift after regular RPM's anytime, it's just when I redline, it doesn't seem to want to go into any gear all of a sudden. I'm going to have to look into a new one.


Anyone know of a good/affordable performance clutch to replace the factory clutch of a 98' GS Eclipse?

Current Mods:
- Weapon-R Intake w/Hyper Foam Filter (Red)
- Weapon-R Breather Filter (Red)
- Tenzo-R Muffler
- Extreme Motorsports Strut
Tower bar
- Symborski Shifter Bushing Kit
- Stock Shortened Shifter
- Momo "King"-style Aluminum Shifter Knob

Centerforce has been used liked by some and not by others, some have had problems.

I haven't heard a complaint from those who use clutchmasters.

And on a side note trans fluid should be changed every 30k.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Nopionline.com has an Unorthodox clutch, but there are two different ones for non-turbo's. One says "modular" ($720), and one says "non-modular" ($414). Do you know if I can get the non-modular one?

Current Mods:
- Weapon-R Intake w/Hyper Foam Filter (Red)
- Weapon-R Breather Filter (Red)
- Tenzo-R Muffler
- Extreme Motorsports Strut
Tower bar
- Symborski Shifter Bushing Kit
- Stock Shortened Shifter
- Momo "King"-style Aluminum Shifter Knob

if i remember right the non-modular clutch is the one that you cant change out the flywheel on but a modular clutch u can. I would go with modular or whichever u can change the flywheel on. 96+ have a modular clutch and the 95 have non-modular.

2003 Acura RSX Type-S
15.042 @ 93.06
Devon
Creator of one of the longest and most controversial posts in 2gnt history...
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=38&topic_id=112462&mesg_id=112462&page=

IT'S THE OTHER WAY AROUND. NON MODULAR IS A SEPARATE CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL AND THE MODULAR IS THE CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL RIVITED TOGETHER AS ONE UNIT.

If you buy a non modular clutch you will have to buy a flywheel that will work with it. Either a stock non modular one or a Aluminium Lightened flywheel. Either way you spend pretty much the same amount.

As far as clutch recommendations, I have a Clutchmasters Stage 3 modular and I have NO complaints. I have NEVER had it slip at all.

________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

go to a junkyard and get a 95 Neon flywheel (Stan did it) and then get the non-mod clutch which is a whole lot less than the damn modular ones. I was going to do this but didn't have the time to so I got one of em custom-made dual friction ones - eh feels the same. I still got my stock clutch - I thought my clutch was going bad and so i had it changed - turns out it wasn't.

ALvin

Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

It Could be the tranny syncros right ?

I'm going to have to mess with it for a little while to get a better diagnosis. A friend of mine, who is a mechanic tested out my car yesterday, and said that by the way that there is a little resistance pushing the stick into gear, it feels like I just need to replace my transaxle fluid. Then I was driving it today, and redlined it, and it shifted fine, and the clutch still pulls hard. So I'm going to try replacing the transaxle fluid first, then pray that it fixes the problem, cause if it doesn't, it may be a synchro problem.

Current Mods:
- Weapon-R Intake w/Hyper Foam Filter (Red)
- Weapon-R Breather Filter (Red)
- Tenzo-R Muffler
- Extreme Motorsports Strut
Tower bar
- Symborski Shifter Bushing Kit
- Stock Shortened Shifter
- Momo "King"-style Aluminum Shifter Knob

I'm pretty positive that I have a synchro problem. What exactly do I have to do to fix it?

AEM CAI/ AFX UDP/ GST Muffler/ Magnecors/ NGK plugs/ Intrax Springs/ Symbroski Shift Kit

Try the fluid first, probably too late though and the synchros are already gone. I am rebuilding my tranny right now because of the synchros and I have the same problem with shifting at high rpm.

________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

I have the same exact problem shifting into 2nd. Whenever Im higher than 3K rpms, I get a nice grind. Im actually takin to the garage tomorrow to get fixed. Ive been told its prolly the syncros.

____________________________________________________________


-Nick
97 ESi
93 Laser RS Turbo

I'm not an expert on this subject but what about double clutching (shifting to nuetral than to 3rd/4th/5th)?

It only happens to mine when I redline hard, I mean when it was a little past 7k rpm's. I've been testing it today (launching), and haven't really ran into the problem again, but I wasn't redlining the sh*t out of the car either. It may just be my own inexperience of taking off and pushing the rev limiter too hard. I'll post what happens after changing that fluid. Won't change it probably til this weekend.

Current Mods:
- Weapon-R Intake w/Hyper Foam Filter (Red)
- Weapon-R Breather Filter (Red)
- Tenzo-R Muffler
- Extreme Motorsports Strut
Tower bar
- Symborski Shifter Bushing Kit
- Stock Shortened Shifter
- Momo "King"-style Aluminum Shifter Knob

I've been having the exact same problem lately. Though, I do have a CM stage 4 clutch and an itchy shifter hand I checked the clutch resevrior today and found it to be low. Filled it back up, pumped the pedal a few times and took off. Didnt miss a gear all night. Could all be in my head. Hasty shifting will make you miss gears if you're not exactly precise. A good way to see if your synchros are going to shit is by trying to downshift to a lower gear at a high rpm. You'll find out real quick if theyre bad.

91 awd: 60-1, 880's, E-Prom, etc.
93 awd: JDM 6 bolt, K&N, full exhaust, Wally 255, otherwise stock.

R.I.P. the original "Factory Freak"
15.5's with short ram and catback only
1996 RS 5-speed

Downshifting will kill your synchros.

If you have grinding above 3000 rpm it's your synchros. Most people replace the tranny when the synchros go bad because the shop manual says the parts are not replaceable but we are starting to find out that they actually are.

As far as double clutching goes, it does help me to use 3rd gear with just a little crunch as I go into it, without double clutching my 3rd just GRINDSSSSSS. I have my other tranny apart right now and I am working on fixing it as we speak.

________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

So if I take my car in to have the synchros replaced, they're going to tell me that I need a new tranny? That sounds like a load of crap. The synchros are replacable is that what you're sayin? How much do they run? How hard are they to change?

AEM CAI/ AFX UDP/ GST Muffler/ Magnecors/ NGK plugs/ Intrax Springs/ Symbroski Shift Kit

When was the last time you changed your tranny fluid? One way to check for any sort of wear is to get an high powered mini magnet and put it in the inspection hole of the tranny. Let it sit there for about 5 minutes and pull it out. If you have metal stuck to it, you're in for a tranny rebuild. If you get no metal, change your tranny fluid.

My tranny has over 125K miles and 500+ drag passes on it with no (knock on wood) damage at this time. But I've also changed the tranny fluid every 30k miles. I'm 5k miles overdue right now and the shifting is getting a little notchy. That's when I know it's time to drain and refill.

97 Eclipse GS-15.463@88.57MPH - RIP
92 Talon TSi AWD-12.927@105.47MPH