Ok, I am now into a full engine rebuild! I need advice for an UDP, are the ones on EBAY any good, the BILLET OBX, ect., Do they usually come with the Shorter Belts? Help on Pulling my Crank!!!

This all started when I heard a fast ticking sound on the very top of my engine, almost sounded like it was hitting the Valve Cover, thought could be noise lifter/lash adjuster, sticky valve, etc. Removed Valve Cover but couldn't pin point it...Checked OIL.. VERY VERY LOW .. almost empty, filled it with Slick 50 type OIL additive.

**NOTE Previously before i heard the ticking, for the past month there was Lots of White Smoke Pouring out, smelled bad, horrible... Took it to a shop & they told me nothing!! Could be head gasket, could be EGR...yada yada yada..could be this or that..they need more Money

Then at Full WOT, coming home one day, The SOUND got worse, Thought the Timing Belt Snapped, Sounded like silverwear Smashing together!!

So Far have entire engine Tore Down, everything out except the Bottom End, Had Head Resurfaced ($29), Polished Intake and Exhaust Ports, Valves Swirl Polished, Bought all new Gaskets ($90), Reassembling HEAD today, I'm purchasing new UDP, but need to know which one is best.. I'm on a tight budget...AF/X..Unortho...???.

So i took my Rod Bearings over to a shop to have them checked, they look flattend....Owner said they are "SPUN", need new Crank, I can get a new Crank with New ROD BEARINGS and MAIN Bearings for $165, Is this a good deal? Also he will Regrind my Rods for $18 each, I just need to know easiest way to REMOVE IT, and Yes i have CHILTONS
ANY HELP Greatly Appreciated.. WIll have pics up Sooon

af/x is always safe to go with... ive seen a few UDPs on ebay but i wouldnt put anything like that on my car that hasnt been proven. Sounds like you are having fun with your car, sorry to hear about all that. Good luck!

>So i took my Rod Bearings over to a shop to have them
>checked, they look flattend....Owner said they are "SPUN",

They probably are spun, but just a note - they are flat to begin with

>need new Crank, I can get a new Crank with New ROD BEARINGS
>and MAIN Bearings for $165, Is this a good deal? Also he

Brand new factory crank is $300. Full set of bearings is $60 from Howell. Sounds like you're getting new bearings and a junkyard crank?

>will Regrind my Rods for $18 each, I just need to know
>easiest way to REMOVE IT, and Yes i have CHILTONS
>ANY HELP Greatly Appreciated.. WIll have pics up Sooon

What do you mean "regrind your rods" ? You lost me there.

1. take the block out of the car. There is no sense in leaving it in.

2. Unbolt it from the transmission, unbolt the flexplate from the main. Undo motor mounts, lift the block out.

3. unbolt your oil pump from your block. i want to say there are 4-5 bolts.

4. Separate the block and bedplate. It's hard - beat it with something.

5. seperate the oil pump from the block. At that point, you should be able to lift out the whole crank/oil pump/timing belt pully assembly as one.

You're going to ahve to use a small flywheel puller to get the timing belt pulley off. Remove the pulley key, and you should be able to wiggle off the oil pump. Get your new crank, polish the journals, and go.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Thanx Dark One,
When he said Cut the Rods, He meant that since the Crank Journals where wore, and would need recut, and the bearings are wore, he said that it would have changed the shape of the inside of the ROD.. So he would cut these to match the new Bearings and the New Crank for $18.00 Each. He said since the Rod Spun, then there isn't enough pressure on the bearing inside the rod and it needs resurfaced.. I dunno i just hope i'm not getting ripped off, gotta watch that budget.

He also said to bring my bottom end in he wants to look at that, he said it may need Bored, which i turn would mean .20 over + RINGS ( I heard Total Seal sux) and new Pistons.. which i could not do right now $$$ factor.

Also a big Thanx for the step by step, I already have the Pistons out, and rented a Jaw puller to get the UDP off, But that little Pulley for the Timing Belt still needs to come off, correct???

Now here is another problem, when he looked up my car (95 GS) he found two different Bolt configurations for my Crank, IS there two different ones? I was going to just pull the crank and find the Bolt Config. From there.

Also the $165 did sound a little too cheap, even for my taste, But he said to get my crank journals regrind it would be just as expensive. So i'll just get the $165 one and if it looks like Crap, I'll make him take it back, because he did say New!!

Http://home.adelphia.net/~rvrabel1/Rays%20Car/Picture%2087.JPG

If you are replacing the crank, i wouldn't worry about the rods. Unless you can see physical damage on the inside of the big end, they should be fine. Polish the journals, use new bearings (of course) and you should be good to go.

If anything, just hone the cylinders and replace the rings, don't bother with a .020 overbore or new pistons.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

The first time I spun a bearing I replaced just the bearing and it spun again in 300 miles because the crank was messed up. Just make sure that you go over everything because it sucks when you pay the money and get it fixed and then have to do it again in a week.


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