I read Sean Gordon's (vegasdsm guy) how-to on installing the UDP but still got a few questions:

1- is lowering the engine a must? Is there really that little room to work with?
2- does the side motor mount come completely OFF the car, or do I just remove the bolt going through the mount and then I can raise and lower the engine as needed?
3- what is the thread, length and size of the bolt needed to replace the pulley? Thread being metric or standard.
4- how many inches worth of washers will I need?

Step 12 reads like this:

"12. To tighten your pulley more (it needs to be torqued to 105 ft.lbs, put your car back on the ground in gear (I put her in 5th), hand brake on and wheel blocks I used a long socket extension (or several short ones connected together), stuck it through the front right wheel all the way to the crank bolt and tighten it with the torque wrench. (I have heard stepping on the brakes inside the car also helps)"

1a- how do I put the car back on the ground with the wheel off?
2a- if I replace the wheel then how do I get the socket extension onto the bolt?
3a- can't I just place something THROUGH the pulley, so that it hits the engine block or whatever is in the immediate area, and tighten the bolt to 105ft/lbs? Or would this mess up the pulley?

Final question:

Anyone got a write up on how to do this with pictures throughout the instructions?

I tried searching the archives but it always came up as a blank page, sorry, I know this has probably been covered before but I needed to know.


Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

Aiight I checked out the VFAQ on changing the timing belt, here's what it shows for installing the pulley:

"Install crankshaft damper using MB995035 (Figure 21). Using special tools MB990767 and MD998719 to hold damper, tighten crankshaft bolt to 62 Nm (45 ft-lbs)

Figure 21
"

Ok now here it shows a special tool, does this hold the shaft so I don't need to lower the car and use an extension and what not to tighten the bolt? Does it make tightening possible with the car raised? And is it 105 ft-lbs or 45 ft-lbs? Gordon says 105 and VFAQ 45, now I'm confused.

Help.

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

Coo'
alex_ries@hotmail.com

ya, the 105 ft and 45 ft confused me too. mine is torqued at 105.

keep the car jacked up, and have a buddy step on brakes while u torque her down. that way worked better. only do the first if you are alone (and put the tire back on) 105 lbs is fuggin tight. youll see how much of a bitch it is to get the pulley back on once you are there.

the reason u need the extra bolt is to be able to get the new pulley on (length of bolt wont be long enough if pulley isnt on yet) so if you heat the new one up and slide her on, i dont think u will need a longer bolt. do use washers tho cuz it distributes the force more evenly (over a larger surface area) than just the cap on the bolt.

special tool?? corbin made sum homemade thing to keep the pulley in place while tightening it. i was usin an extension through the pulley wedged up to sumthin else.

u do have to lower engine to get old pulley off, only until the small circle on the pulley is lower, once u have teh puller on her, u will see the clearance issues
side motor mount, i took mine out, made it easier to look down while puttin on new belts. the motor mount supports the engine from the bottom, so u need to yank it to drop the engine. i had to loosen my front donut mount a lil to get the clearance i needed.

i think i had the thread on my page, check there again to see if u see it. i bought about 1/2-3/4" worth of washers, only used like 3.

just have a buddy around, so he/she can step on the brakes.

hope that helps

i do know that hades omega has an imagestation file that has a few pics of the udp install

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

If you are in need of the longer bolt for the crank, a body mount bolt out of a chevy pickup truck is IDENTICAL to the stock crank pulley. This is what i used to do mine, and worked perfectly. Just stop out at the local junkyard for it..I used an air impact wrench to put on my pulley, and it was very easy, so if you have access to one, it will save you a lot of time and needless to say, effort. Check out my timing belt link in my sig, it might be a little helpful since i had to take off the crank pulley there too...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)