#136628, "Acceleration Problems" Apr-29-12 11:12 PM by b-radsmjunky
Hello everyone,
I own a 95 eagle talon 420a turbo conversion.
I was hoping you could help me diagnose a problem. I seem to be having acceleration issues.
While nearing 6000 rpm's, and close to flooring the engine, the rpm's go up faster than usual with a loss in power accompanied by a change in engine sound. The decrease in power is very noticeable.
It does this in every gear, but only when I really get on the accelerator.
I posted a video of the car experiencing the problem while in first, second and third gear. The video is a little shaky, but you clearly see the rpm jump accompanied by abnormal sound as if I was on the accelerator but slipped out of gear.
The Down pipe has a decent leak which causes the wide band flash 7.4 in error along with reading inaccurately. Is this causing the problem? I have a ms2 mega-squirt ecu for it along with 440 cc injectors. Both of which are uninstalled. Could the installation of these items possibly fix this issue?
#136632, "RE: Acceleration Problems" In response to Reply # 2
Same thing I posted on DSMTuners.
Okay, several things going on here...You have a lot of things to fix
First of all, I just watched the video and you made it in the rain. You could be losing traction and this will feel like a loss of power because:
A) We have open differential B) The roads are wet C) Your tires are worn D) A combination of those
Secondly, Your downpipe having a hole in it will not effect your turbo making boost. The downpipe is just to carry exhaust away from the front of the car and has already passed through the turbine. It will cause your wideband to read inaccurately. If you had a leaky downpipe it should show lean since some of the exhaust is escaping before the wideband can read it. So, you could be flooding the engine and its bogging out under boost. Does your exhaust burn your eyes if you are near it?
Third, in your mod list you have a 12:1 FMU and an AFPR listed, are you running both? If so why? This could be your fuel problem.
Fourth, I do not see a missing link or FCD on that mod list. When our map sensor reads positive pressure it cuts fuel. You NEED to run one of these if you are still using the stock ECU to control fuel. Fuel cut = no power. When you switch to MS you can remove the FCD or missing link.
Fifth, a flashing 7.4 on your LC-1 means you don't have it set up correctly. Do you have the warm-up LED connected? Did you calibrate it in free air before running it? Is it set to AFR or lambda? Is it grounded properly? Where is it located in the downpipe? Did you burn it up by having it too close to the turbo?
Never seen anyone make a video of a mod list that is on paper :-p. If you already have it typed up why not just copy and paste it into the thread? Also, take the time to fill out your profile with your mods. It makes it easier when people try to help you out.
Watch this video. It is the same process for our cars.
#136637, "RE: Acceleration Problems" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by SilvrEclips Slipping clutch for sure. If one tire was spinning the speedo would be increasing as well. I wouldnt get on it anymore until you change it.
Oh yeah, forgot that would have been obvious... The simple things slip my mind sometimes.
#136640, "RE: Acceleration Problems" In response to Reply # 3
Originally posted by 99RedGs Same thing I posted on DSMTuners. Okay, several things going on here...You have a lot of things to fix First of all, I just watched the video and you made it in the rain. You could be losing traction and this will feel like a loss of power because: A) We have open differential B) The roads are wet C) Your tires are worn D) A combination of those Secondly, Your downpipe having a hole in it will not effect your turbo making boost. The downpipe is just to carry exhaust away from the front of the car and has already passed through the turbine. It will cause your wideband to read inaccurately. If you had a leaky downpipe it should show lean since some of the exhaust is escaping before the wideband can read it. So, you could be flooding the engine and its bogging out under boost. Does your exhaust burn your eyes if you are near it? Third, in your mod list you have a 12:1 FMU and an AFPR listed, are you running both? If so why? This could be your fuel problem. Fourth, I do not see a missing link or FCD on that mod list. When our map sensor reads positive pressure it cuts fuel. You NEED to run one of these if you are still using the stock ECU to control fuel. Fuel cut = no power. When you switch to MS you can remove the FCD or missing link. Fifth, a flashing 7.4 on your LC-1 means you don't have it set up correctly. Do you have the warm-up LED connected? Did you calibrate it in free air before running it? Is it set to AFR or lambda? Is it grounded properly? Where is it located in the downpipe? Did you burn it up by having it too close to the turbo? Never seen anyone make a video of a mod list that is on paper :-p. If you already have it typed up why not just copy and paste it into the thread? Also, take the time to fill out your profile with your mods. It makes it easier when people try to help you out. Watch this video. It is the same process for our cars. [url=
Ok, while I am aware that I made the video in the rain, I know for a fact that the tires weren't spinning. The rain had JUST started as I was driving under the over pass getting ready to merge onto the freeway. The pavement was practically dry. The car will throw the issue on dry pavement or not, I just wanted to make a video demonstrating the problem. A little bad timing I guess. lol
The tires have plenty of tread. We can rule tires and slippage out.
I will check into the FMU and AFPR. They are both installed. I will also check into all your concerns regarding the Wideband. Thank you for those suggestions.
The video is very informative, I will do some guess and check work and update the forum if I come to a conclusion.
#136641, "RE: Acceleration Problems" In response to Reply # 7
What do you have to check, The clutch is slipping there is no doubt about that. All of the other things that may need to be fixed on the car have nothing to do with the clutch slipping. The pedal adjustment would be if the clutch does not release when pressed all the way down. Assuming you have the correct slave rod installed and not preloading the clutch, you have a worn clutch or exceeded the power rating for the one thats installed.
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