Ok, I have been searching with no luck so I have decided to make a post on a question I have... Has anyone had there stock rods shot peened, and if so how much more power can you squeeze out with the added strength?. Please dont say just go forged. lol. I know I should. Its a bang for your buck question.

It's crossed my mind. I can prolly shot peen them to for you for like $5 a rod, but you will need to get them finished. And there in lies the problem. A New set of eagles for $275 or Shotpeening rods ($5 a rod) New bolts in the rods (~$8 per arp 2000 rod bolt) New Bushings (~$8 a bushing) and that brings you to $116 before even going into re-balancing the rods along with re-boring them. Basically do you want to save $50 in order for a far less superior rod?

97 Talon ESi 14.943@91.35MPH N/A!
"If you need someone to provide an itemized build of materials and a flowchart to walk you through every build-related question you will need to answer at each step of the process, you shouldn't be playing with cars. "-Driggs

I was thinking stock bolts. I havent heard anyone breaking there bolts before there rods, or even breaking there rod bolts, so that should save over 100 with stockers.

Bolts are just as important if not more so than the connecting rod itself. Especially small bolts you want them made out of a good material.

97 Talon ESi 14.943@91.35MPH N/A!
"If you need someone to provide an itemized build of materials and a flowchart to walk you through every build-related question you will need to answer at each step of the process, you shouldn't be playing with cars. "-Driggs

Yeah, I agree. but since my goal is only 250whp to 300whp I think oem rod bolts should hold up fine. If I did upgrade the bolts then I would just upgrade rods and pistons like you said. My main goal is trying to see how much power I can make by addressing the weakest links in the stock motor and making them stronger for maybe 12psi instead of the recomended 8psi on a stock motor.

PSI is not a measure of power. Not apples for apples when looking at the variety of turbos.

8 or 12 psi means nothing.

---

2012 2500HD LML

I understand that. lol. It stands for pounds per square inch. (How much pressure your engine is under.. Which by the way I believe a small turbo with 20psi and 250hp, and a larger turbo with 10psi and 300hp.. The 250hp motor will be under MORE stress. The lesser psi and bigger turbo is better for your motor, even with the extra 50hp output.) Anyways.. I was refering to 8 and 12 psi regaurding the hahn kit, but I forgot to metion it. At 12 psi the kit should make around 250whp.

I forgot to state that that's if the motors were identical in modifications.

I don't think you can just find the weak parts of a stock motor and replace it with parts for higher psi. Really it is all in the Tune. You can run 8psi on a bad tune and blow the motor. or 12psi on a good safe tune and never have a problem with the stock motor. Of course depends on the shape of the motor itself also.
And stock rods cant handle much more the 250ft/lbs tq

Yeah, I agree. Its all in the tune, but I am thinking a little more reliablility out of a stock motor. Usually the rods are the first to go out since they are one of the weakest factors, but I was just wandering about shot peening them for added strength, alittle more boost (on a Hahn kit), and be reliable with a good tune. Hondas have been shot peening for awhile with good results.

97 Talon ESi 14.943@91.35MPH N/A!
"If you need someone to provide an itemized build of materials and a flowchart to walk you through every build-related question you will need to answer at each step of the process, you shouldn't be playing with cars. "-Driggs

I still think in the long run you're better off buying a set of Eagle Rods. The cost savings is so minimal with what you want to do with the rods that it just doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

...and you're going to be upset when the rods go down the road if you go with this "budget build". Save yourself the trouble now and get a set of good rods that will handle a turbocharged application in excess of 250hp and up to 500hp and possibly more.

There is some truth in the statement "you get what you pay for".

I contributed to the Wiki.

From my experience, stock rod bolts are what generally go first. Torn down quite a few that they blamed on rod (because the rod was sticking out the block, lol), but upon closer inspection it was the rod bolt that went first.

But If you were to get new stock rod bolts, I would go with that.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

I have to slightly disagree. If Getting new bolts, might as well upgrade to at least ARP 2000's.

97 Talon ESi 14.943@91.35MPH N/A!
"If you need someone to provide an itemized build of materials and a flowchart to walk you through every build-related question you will need to answer at each step of the process, you shouldn't be playing with cars. "-Driggs

Yeah, maybe you are right about the bolts. No one has experimented on the stock bolts to see how strong they are so it would be a big risk.. Dsmgraveyard has a stock shot peened rod and piston combo for 300. I will call and ask them tomorrow what the hp rating is for the, and what rod bolts they use.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Thanks for letting me know!. It is hard to know what companies are reputable and not.. Do they have a forum on this site about good and bad shops to deal with?.. I haven't found anything.

I tried to tell you the other day in the chat to stay away from DSM Graveyard. Just reaffirming the "told you so".

I contributed to the Wiki.