So I was working on my 95' Talon Esi the other day and installed my new Wally 190lph. When I went to go turn the car over it wouldnt start and I noticed that the hardline had a decent sized puncture in it. The problem is that I cant find any stainless steel after market kits/lines that go from the fuel rail back. I saw one from STM but they said its only for a turbo model. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Mike

You'll have to buy a roll of line and most likely bend it yourself.

_____________________________________________
95TalonOwner on DSMTuners.com
Wes Tank on WiDSM.org

There isn't going to be a 'custom fit' part for this, I can pretty much guarantee you that. If sourcing a new hard line is not an option, I would simply cut out the effected area and attach AN fittings or nipples to both ends and run a short hose between them.

1998 Eclipse RS-T - Totaled 4/23/09 -
1998 Eclipse GST - Stroked 2.3l, HX40 fed: Build in progress
2010 Subaru Outback Limited

I hate hipsters.

Thanks for the fast replies. I was hoping that there was some after market. Do you think that there is anyway I could fab this up to work?
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_dsm_fuel_tank_to_rail_kit.htm

Thanks

Why not just run stainless steel braided lines all the way back..?

It will probably be cheaper to piece it together yourself. If you search it there are a couple DIY's of people doing it already. I might have a link for you but im not at my computer.

What part of the hardline is punctured?

Both the set-ups I did were basically buy a bunch of line (I think it was 16 feet - feed and return lines) and figure out the fittings. With that being said, you will need to alter your termination points (i.e. rail and at the fpr - or at the fuel tank, depending on how you do it). Which means you will have to do some welding and/or brazing to get fittings on for the ss hook ups. You will either have to adapt the stock FPR or get a different one to go in-line (like an Aeromotive). You will also need to allow for the fuel filter (again, adapt or in-line ss filter). Then you will have to adapt for the fuel rail (on one of my set-ups I was able to use the stock inlet hose with an ss fitting. You may have to put a fitting onto the rail).

That is of course, unless someone lese has a different way to use SS line.

You could also think about doing pushloc. I did that on my 420a turbo and it worked out fine (but you still have to adapt. Just less).

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

You can do this setup, which will be completely getting rid of your hardline(at your fuel pump bracket) and run ss braided lines straight from your pump to the rail.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/254501-high-flow-fuel-set-up.html

Then get this fitting for the fuel rail: http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/ci-6an-fuel-rail-inlet-fitting.html

These links you may use as reference to get some sort of idea.

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Fuel_Supply_Line_Set_Up

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/302913-how-replace-stock-fuel-line-ss-braided-pump-rail.html

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211407


I used PushLok hose and fittings on my fuel system but SS braided would be best.

1998 Eclipse RS-T - Totaled 4/23/09 -
1998 Eclipse GST - Stroked 2.3l, HX40 fed: Build in progress
2010 Subaru Outback Limited

I hate hipsters.

Bullet* not billet. I was looking at a billet fuel rail ad and had one of those type what I saw and not what I was thinking moments

If I were to go push-loc, How much HP could it handle? I plan on rebuilding and eventually going turbo hopefully by next summer.

It's not a measure of horsepower when it comes to hoses. It's pressure.
Hoses are rated in PSI. Or, how many pounds per square inch of pressure it takes to cause a failure. (Assuming you'll build your fuel system correctly, and not use a 12:1 rising-rate regulator; or something else that causes 100PSI+ fuel pressures) Rubber fuel hose should be just fine.

1998 Eclipse RS-T - Totaled 4/23/09 -
1998 Eclipse GST - Stroked 2.3l, HX40 fed: Build in progress
2010 Subaru Outback Limited

I hate hipsters.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

You can do this too, as an option. Use a flaring tool, sleeves, and nuts, and convert to AN fittings. Not the cheap route, obviously.

I am too lazy to resize.

---

2012 2500HD LML

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Thanks Bullet, I am going to check over the tuts and get together a parts list and Ill post it on here to make sure I have everything I need before I start this project.

I think DSM should stand for DriveSometimes-Maybe :p Atleast for my car due to previous owners neglecting routine maintenance.

A little info when choosing sizes for your application...

http://stlouisifs.com/Parker%20Catalog/PDFs/Tubing/Push-Lok.pdf

Okay so here's a parts list that I accumulated so far.

Fuel Line Replacement:
Parts/hose/fittings needed;

General;
25ft JEGS Push-Loc Hose (59.99)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/102214/10002/-1?parentProductId=
.............................

Fuel Pump Assembly/Bracket;

2x 90 degree bulkhead connector -6an (9.99)
(supply and return)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/983306/10002/-1

2x bulkhead nut (2.99)
(supply and return)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/592406/10002/-1

2x Barb to -6an fitting (3.99)
(supply and return)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/100051/10002/-1

6 inches high pressure fuel injection line
(use extra push-loc)

4x hose clamps (4.99)


4x nylon crush washers (9.99)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/177006/10002/-1

.......................................

Fuel Rail (19.99)

CI Motorsports -6AN Fuel Rail Inlet Fitting
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/ci-6an-fuel-rail-inlet-fitting.html
.............................................


I am unsure what else I need for the front of the car(ie. fittings, AFPR/SFMU. etc) and where to run them.

@chinexican Thanks I didnt even bother to read the description.

No problem. Somebody has to square you Privates away.

Okay so all I need is the fittings for upfront and I will be set

Can someone elaborate a little bit more on the fittings I will need for upfront in the engine bay? I am still a little confused. Thanks.

bullet was outlining a few different options in a post up above. I'll see if I can find pics of a few different set ups and post them. (if you don't figure it out before I get back)

The screen name says it all