Here is exactly how I am running my oil catch can setup now:


This setup works perfectly for in town and highway driving, but come track day when I'm boosting hard threw sharp right hand turns the oil seems to spew out of the port of the drivers side on the valve cover (due to the fact that it faces directly to the left side of the motor) and by the end of my 4 lap run my can is full to the brim with oil. For this past weekend I purchased and fluid transfer pump and had to pump the oil from the can back into the motor after every run! There has to be a better setup for me to use so this doesn't constantly happen every track event. Anyone have any ideas for a better setup that won't have this problem?

Boosted Venge With 8-Injector Setup & 034

I run both ports on the valve cover to a vented catch can as you have illustrated, but without the PCV valve. It does not serve a purpose if you are venting both lines to the atmosphere.

With the design of the valve cover baffling I am not sure why you are accumulating so much oil in the catch can. Are you running fairly high boost? Excessive blow by may be an indication of worn rings or excessive wear elsewhere.

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2012 2500HD LML

I only run 10psi on stock internals. My compression reads 150 straight across the boards and I have a new .50 trim turbo with less then 200 miles on it.

This has ALWAYS happened out at the track (never on the street), but only when we run clockwise. When reversed and there's nothing but left hand turns there is no oil inside the can.

The very first time I got her boosted I just had a breather filter on the drivers side port and oil was spraying out of it and all over the back side of the motor. So for a quick fix we got some hose leading off the port into an empty water bottle (all we had at the time) and after every run I would empty the bottle back into the motor.

Boosted Venge With 8-Injector Setup & 034

You could run a drain line from the catch can back to the oil pan.

98 Eclipse GS Turbo
Built motor - MS2 - Holset hy35 - Zoom Stg 4 Clutch - 57.5mm TB - ARP Headstuds - Turbonetics wastegate - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Cobra calipers w/ 13" Rotors - Oil Cooler - DevilsOwn meth injection

1981 Chevy Scottsdale
1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car
2001 BMW 325i

This would be a quick solution to the problem without actually FIXING it lol.

It has been recomended to me that the setup I currently use does not evac the crankcase properly and should switch to a dual can setup like so:

Can 1: Valve Cover (pcv side) >>>> OEM PCV Valve >>>> Catch Can >>>> Check Valve >>>> Intake Manifold
Can 2: Valve Cover (cam sensor side) >>>> Catch Can >>>> Air Intake Piping (pre-turbo)

This makes more sense and acutally will pull vac unlike my current vented setup.

Now I am looking into crank scrapers as well as I've been told this is a MUST for a track car and I completely understand why!

Boosted Venge With 8-Injector Setup & 034

I contributed to the Wiki.

After this same discussion on another Forum (ASEClub.net) I have decided to purchase a crank scraper with windage tray and baffles, and also switch my can setup to the following dual can setup before the next track event in Sept:


Can 1: Valve Cover (pcv side) >>>> OEM PCV Valve >>>> Catch Can >>>> Check Valve >>>> Intake Manifold

I'm going to be using a mini air compressor filter like this but with the check valve on the other side:


Can 2: Valve Cover (cam sensor side) >>>> Catch Can >>>> Air Intake Piping (pre-turbo)

Using this style can:


Between these two upgrades I should no longer have my "oil fill up" problem anymore.

Boosted Venge With 8-Injector Setup & 034

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Good choice on the baffles in the pan, at some autox events I have watched the oil pressure gauge lay to 0psi in fast sweeping right turns. What baffles are you looking at getting? The only ones I found looked a little cheap IMO.

I also chose to get ride of the PCV valve altogether, it seemed it was leaking under boost pressurizing the crankcase and spitting oil out of the breather on the VC. I no longer have issues with oil blowing all over the motor.

98 Eclipse GS Turbo
Built motor - MS2 - Holset hy35 - Zoom Stg 4 Clutch - 57.5mm TB - ARP Headstuds - Turbonetics wastegate - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Cobra calipers w/ 13" Rotors - Oil Cooler - DevilsOwn meth injection

1981 Chevy Scottsdale
1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car
2001 BMW 325i

I honestly think the windedge tray and scrapers will solve my problem as well but I still am going to change the catch can setup.

The scrapers, tray, and baffles I plan to get is this exact kit (but not with the teflon). Costs around $400 but 100% worth it IMO

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Mitsubishi_420a.html

Boosted Venge With 8-Injector Setup & 034

Be prepared to wait a while. IJ scrapers are build-to-order and as far as I know there is only one guy that actually does the work. Took 2 months to receive my scraper/baffle/tray assembly and that was with me hounding the hell out of them.

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2012 2500HD LML

Hmmmm... that kinda sucks but they sound like they're worth the wait for them.

I really don't see any others around that are near as good of quality as this one. I found some cheapo, near worthless scrapers on ebay but windage trays seem to be hard pressed to find anywhere else....

Boosted Venge With 8-Injector Setup & 034

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Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim