Hello friends,

Is there a way to test the ecu on my 97 eclipse 2.0 non turbo?

I sorta got the ignition stuff figured out, but still no crank, I plugged a code reader in and it didn't connect to anything.

Also, there is no Service light coming on. Nor airbag light. I did manage to get the wipers and headlights to come on. but rocking out with my headlights on and my wipers going is starting to creep out the neighbors, I need to get this thing off my front lawn

Edited for content.

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I'm like a hunter of spice...one who chases the elusive mayfly of pain...or something like that.

Give us some background information. Why is the ECU needing a test? Was there a previous problem?

Regarding the dash lights, did they work recently? Otherwise make sure the bulbs are not burned out. If your OBDII device is not connecting to the ECU, ensure all the pins on the data port are not compromised.

The next easiest method is dropping your suspect ECU into another model year 2GNT and seeing if it causes problems, or installing a known good ECU to see if works.

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2012 2500HD LML

yo thanks fo the reply,


Here's a few snippets from earlier posts about whats going on:




Key doesn't turn over engine. But enough with that, it looks to have been "tinkered w/" if you catch my meaning.

I used a wrench and connected the one bolt w/ the other on the starter and the car turns over. However there is no spark off coils. I did old school screwdriver test and mult meter test, no spark.

The meter test from 1 to 4 and 2 to 3, was in Ohm parameters, supposedly, I have no FSM for this car as of yet, so I'm going off interweb info. The meter said the wires were getting the correct voltage as it turned over, maybe, i think. idk. it was very high voltage.

The Cam angle sensor, i think, (420a) it's on drivers side of engine, looked old, but i cleaned it, it's getting voltage to the harness at least. dont know how much it should be getting but it looked consistent with what i read.

tl:dr summary:

No spark, don't think there is a bad Dist Cap, the wires look new, voltage going to them consistent w/ supposed parameters. I'm thinking either one of the CAS or CKPS are bad, if there is even two sensors.

There is no CEL flashing or even emitting.

I stick key in ignition, it beeps, door light comes on if door is open, I turn key...nothing.

Car beeps if door is open, if closed...silence.

As for the second poster,

yes, that makes sense. I am very ignorant about vehicles. Please accept my apologies.

It looked as if someone tried to cram a screwdiver or other such device in the ignition. There was an alarm, undercar floor lights, dvd player, funny guages, aftermarket steering wheel. And lots and lots of unconnected, bare wires, in all colors. much like a rainbow. though little promise of a golden chalice of the gods awaiting me near the steering column.

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I found out the ignition switch wasn't plugged in, that should have been obvious, but it was on the other side of the steering column and I was having so much fun with the key side. Anyways, I plugged it in and got lights and wipers to work, but still no air bag or sls light.

There are so many wires under the steering column that I really don't want to test each of them or find which ones go where if the ECU is bad. I mean, wth would be the point of that if it was bad anyways? I'd rather test the ecu first, if possible, and then if I found it works, move onto testing what wires go where from the ecu back.

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I'm like a hunter of spice...one who chases the elusive mayfly of pain...or something like that.

Well, you have a mess on your hands. Before testing for a bad ECU, I would sort out what is going on under the steering column. Even if you hook up a couple of the wires giving you power to the wipers and accessories, you need to verify that the ASD relay (gives power to injectors and coil) and ECU are even getting power.

I installed a CODE Alarm in my RS, and basing my experience off that, if it was removed without the appropriate wires connected, flicking the key will not give power to anything. The alarm's job is to interrupt power to the ECU and starter in the event of theft.

Your options, in my opinion:

1. Sort out the steering column wiring to bring it back to stock -OR-
2. Hardwire power via manual switches to the ECU and related accessories.

The FSM is available here: http://nawdu.de/files/

I hope you can decipher and understand schematics - if you look at the diagrams and scratch your head, your problem is not something that can be easily solved via members on this board over the Internet.

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2012 2500HD LML

As Dave said, I wouldn't worry about the ECU right now. You need to figure out the wiring first. Honestly, the best bet right now is to rip out the old and put in a "new" (as in "known good") wiring harness. Might want to give stangmurdera a call for that (Miller Import on here).

MB

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

find someone else that has a eclipse same year and plug it in theres