i may need to rewire my igntion switch, is this a good start?

Black white wire to "ig sw" fuseable 30amp Link in the engine fuse box.
White wire is 12V 60Amp , this should be constant 12v
Red black goes to the starter

sound solid?

Black with yellow stripe goes to 12v starter relay.

black with red is 12v power for ecu control

red is fuse power

I do not remember blue off the top of my head.

Why didn't/don't you just call me. I will walk you through it over the phone.

lol... i dont have any "ecu relays" or starter realys...the starter works, (or at least it did) before i removed some of the fan/ac relays and their wiring. im basically looking at a whole re-wire of the ig swtch.. plus im getting 5 v on one of the wires when i dont even have the fuse in..

the white wire thats bolted to the 60A fuse supplies the constant 12V (which it does). it also supplies the 12v to one side of the "IG sw" fuseable link. the other side of that fuseable link should go to what ? the 12v twhile running and cranking (aka, turns into the black with white stripe)
wheres this magical red wire, i dont recall seing one in the IG harness? White,black white stripe, black red, 2 blues and mayb 1 more, im not looking at it right now lol


the only relays i have (stock) are the headlights and tails...the rest are removed. put the key in, turned to start pos and the ig harness started smoking. fail..

i ran all summer with no issue, and like i said , i didint directly touch the IG harness..

u get urs running yet lolz

my car has no electrical issues, its not running because i have no tune for the MS not because i messed up the harness.

i dont understand why you dont have relays for the ecu or starter, thats so wrong in so many ways, but do what you like/please.

I'm willing to help but it seems like you have wired this your own way.

The right way is, battery to 60a, 60a link to ignition switch, switch to asd relay, which is pcm ground. PCM FUSE to asd relay. relay to ground, relay to JC1, JC1 to all sensors for power. This wire is black w white tracer, then becomes black with red tracer.

OFF ING switch, black with yellow to starter relay, relay grounded, black with yellow to starter solenoid, power from starter fuse to relay. VERY BASIC ELECTRICAL.

idk what other circits you need me to render but this is all from memory, and I would start by making these right before stating that it ran previously or knock on weather my car runs or not.

also being that your harness is smoking, and you state the voltages read, you have a clear short to ground somewhere due to a poor ground, in-adiquate ground, or a chaifed wire. Thus the system is either back feeding power, or shorting out. best way to diag these problems with out great know how is to eliminate one circuit at a time, aka pin pull one of the 6 wires from the IGN switch, turn key see if it smokes, do this until it stops thus u know what circuit it comes from, and trace from there....

set your dvom to OHMS/ DIODE, then set your meter to signal, and verify continuity thru wire first to verify no opens, or shorts to ground, and cont. from there.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

OK.. by ecu YOU mean what? stock ecu, i dont have one..there fore ASD realy is gone, since my MS stuff requires their own relays.

ms/Coil are on thier own relay, Injectors are on their own relay, fielding wire for VR own relay, fans own relay, fuel pump own relay. all are triggerd off the black/white stripe Ig wire (except FP since its a (-) trigger from the MS).
now, i have all these UNPLUGGED, as to remove any conffusion..
Grounds: All sensor and MS grounds are grounded to the same place, this is the same as the block ground. shaved paint yadaya, its the same ground used when car ran.

Ms related relays: ran to same ground on chassis. again shaved paint.

i wired it up the standard stand alone way.. i just left all the ms details out b/c well its not hooked up, as to verify the stock stuff worked, thats when i found this issue. Im not trying to start the car , i know it wont start b/c i have the ms, and FP relays out : )

I was merely testing the stock headlight and tail light wiring, they work. The issue is when i have key in and in the run postion the dam thing smokes, and the wrong voltages are displayed.

BC i was givin u shit lol, calm down.. lol

as stated before the car ran just fine, the only thing i did was take the unsed relays (stock fan, ac ect) out and wire in the MS stuff into the stock fuse box for a clean look..

heres how i have the ig setup..stock, b/c i didnt touch it.
whats odd, is it smokes when the 30A fuse isnt even in...so im not sure where its drawing its power?

is 60A too much for just running Ig,, since that used to support power for ac and fans, which it no longer does

theres a white black wire coming from the bundle in the drive side fender harness, this goes to the 12v /60a side as well.

Found 1 issue, but still not the main one. The issue was, since i need 1 more fuse space, i moved the cocpit lights, and wired them into the radio (acc) fuse, this caused the acc to have 12v regardless of key postion, also causing a 4-5v on the black white stripe wire when there was no fuse in the ig switch link. fixed that. so now Acc only has 12 when: White wire (30a fused link) has a fuse in, and the white wire reads 12 and key is on acc. as desinged. now, when i put it to the on postion, i get 12v for about 1/2 a second, then my 30A fuse blows.

now how am i to tell if the black /white stripe wire is grounded some where, when i check connectivity, it says its grounded. well its supposed to be grounded until it see 12 v, i verified this with a working car. so ? is, is the iss in the ignition switch itself?

White wire has 30A fuse, when key is: out, in , or on acc, this had 12 v.

acc only has 12 v when on acc

when i turn it to "on" it blows the 30a...

i dont have my dash in, so no cluster or dash harness is plugged in.. dont htink that matters.. but idk..

its a simple circut. white wire has 30a fuse (gets power from pass side of 60a fused link) this supplies constant power. when key is on "on" it diverts the 12v to the black whit white strip. (12v when running and during crank) this is when fuse blows.

heres what that black with white stripe wire should be running


i dont get why im poping that fuse only when key is on the "on" pos..

Figured it out. Found a black with white stripe that i had grounded. Lesson: dont ground any black with white stripe wires lol.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

lol!!!

yea, its hella clean , all ms Relays and fuses are in the stock fuse box

looks stock huh lol