Eagle h beams .20 over and all the head n block work cut and turned crank custom .50 bearings. either king, cleavite or acl Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons newer header n downpipe to brand new cat back MLS head gasket
Nothing crazy, after winter i plan on boosting it with: wally 255 fuel pump 450cc injectors? Either a 14b or 16g turbo Fmic and a hks ssqv bov
Would this set up work well with boost and be reliable for a DD? I want to run between 12-15 psi almost daily.
Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim
#132410, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 2
Well not the exact numbers but its 0.020 and my rod and main bearings are gonna be 0.050 the machine work looks pretty good and im gonna assemble it with patience and double check everything.
Is what i have listed gonna be enough to boost it with what i have? besides tuning devices?
what could i use to tune it? safc2 and a apexi neo?
#132411, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 3
Originally posted by ryan95eclipse besides tuning devices? what could i use to tune it? safc2 and a apexi neo?
Let's get this straight, those are not tuning devices. They are piggy back bandaids. If you plan on running some serious injectors you need a way to control them at idle.
Use the search function and read through the wikis, plenty of members have posted what they have needed and used for successful setups.
#132412, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 4
Well what would you say is a good tuning device? Im talking what will work even if its a couple different things until i can afford something like megasquirt.
#132413, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 5
A megasquirt fulfilling the role of fuel control is pretty barebones, and from a brief google search on the AFC NEO, the price difference is obvious. The Megasquirt is far more powerful than any other ricer controller available.
#132414, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 6
So my best bet would be to purchase a megasquirt and tune it all from that? It says it comes with a female wiring harness adapter... that would be the one i use to just plug in to my wiring harness. like a plug and play type deal?
#132418, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 9 Nov-23-10 10:00 AM by Ebster1085
Megasquirt is, without a doubt, the most powerful tuning tool for our motor, but it is complex and can be confusing for many. That being said, there is tons of information on this site to help you get it up and running, not to mention many members who currently run it and can provide advice.
However, it is not the only tuning setup available. If you do not plan on going over 27psi, you can run Hahns Portfueler. I use this system, and it is very user friendly. It was easy to install AND tune. The only downfall is that it is simply a means of tuning your air/fuel map and you will not have spark control. The benefit is its simplicity, the cars ability to idle and cruise like stock, and you will still be able to pass state inspection. Of course, if you still wanted to go this route but wanted the additional ability to tune spark, you could always get MSD DIS2 programmable (6212) which will allow you to run a boost dependent spark retard map.
I have seen people selling their PF's systems in the BST section. Might want to take a look in there.
1999 Eclipse GS Built motor Hahn 16G Turbo w/ FMIC Hahn Stage 5 Portfueler (270's & 500's) Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband w/ 3.5bar MAP 3" SS Turbo Back CM Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel Baer Big Brake Kit
#132419, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 10
Yea I wont be planning on going over 27psi for some time now until i can make the car the way i would like it. Just around 15 psi on a good day maybe 18-20psi max depending on the turbo i choose.
I'm just gonna have to do my reading up on both Megsasquirt and the Hahn portfueler and then make my decision on how fat my wallet is at the time.
I am deffintely gonna want which ever I can use to pass state inspection and have my engine run smoothly with more power like your new out of factory turbo car with boost up to 15psi.
#132420, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 11
Why are you going to undersize the main and rod bearing so much? 50 thou is a shit ton. Unless you spun the bearing in it I would wait till you get the crank out and measure the existing journals. You should be taking no more than 20 thousandths off.
#132422, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 12
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Why are you going to undersize the main and rod bearing so much? 50 thou is a shit ton. Unless you spun the bearing in it I would wait till you get the crank out and measure the existing journals. You should be taking no more than 20 thousandths off.
I assumed (and hope) that for some reason he is in the metric system in his first post. 0.5 mm is about 0.020, and I have seen bearings cataloged in that manner.
Either way so many people say twenty over/off and have no idea what the fuck they are talking about, hence we see people wanting to overbore their cylinders by 0.20.
Terry is right, you cannot assume you need to cut cylinders or journals by any amount until you take a micrometer to it and establish any taper/out of round.
#132423, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 13
I haven't rebuilt any 420a's and I haven't seen this happen personally, but I've heard horrior stories of people running 383 sbc with cranks turned to far under and ripping the crank inhalf, which basicly destroyed the block, rods, and all. So don't turn your bearing surfaces unless you absolutely have to.
I think people get the miscomception that they need to overbore the cylinders, because it's common practice with large displacement engines. That works for adding power on v8's and larger motor families but with small displacement engines you wont see significant enough displacement increases to add power.
I forgot who explained this to me, but circle/cylinders are expenitial (I have no clue how to spell that properly) so adding .020 to a 1inch hole does not increase the area as much a adding .020 to a 4inch hole. Therefore you end up not getting enough volume increase to add noticable power.
Sorry if I'm rambling, I'm doing this at work on my phone.
From V's with 8 cylinders to rotarys that spin, as long as its fast everybody wins.
#132424, "RE: 10.5:1 build needs some answers." In response to Reply # 14
Well once i brought the crank and such to my machinist he grabbed the crank and said it really needed turned so he re-machined my crank and i ordered bearings today, he said .50mm which i wasnt thinking straight and its 0.20 over from stock. My crank was bent too and he went ahead and straightened it.
Sorry if I may have made that confusing.
All I need now is a Set of Pistons and I can build and drop my engine in no luck on selling my stroker pistons though. not even for 3 bills.
Search
Printer-friendly copy
1 User in Chat
no luck on selling my stroker pistons though. not even for 3 bills.