Bought this car. its a 95 eclipse gs 5spd. Found the ECU was unplugged n plugged it in. when started it over heats at idle once warmed up. once warmed up the oil light comes on. goes away when rev'd and gos past 1500rpm. Along with the knocking/rattling that occured when rev'd above 2k rpm. I changed the water pump, oil pump radiator, rod bearings. oil psi switch, both temp sensors. oil about 7-8 times and it STILL over heats at idle. Put a mechanical oil gauge on an read 6psi on start up after new oil pump then dropped to 0 once warm. Rod bearings stopped the knocking/rattling. Head has good compresson 185 180 180 185. no leaks at all. new thermostat as well. still over heats? Took to a shop and he said crank is shot.


So i got it half apart. headers. coil pack. battery..etc ready to be pulled withing the next few days. this is gonna be my first rebuild. Anything i should know or watch for? what i should and shouldnt do? look for? like during piston install. crank install. main bearings install. etc? or text (four four zero-six five four- zero three four four ) for much quicker responce. thanks a lot to the guys who can help. i been stuck for the past 6 months :/

Even though you have good compression you probably have a bad headgasket. Was the head machined when everything was apart for the rebuild? If not then I'd put money on the headgasket.

I recently did a head swap where I didn't machine the head, and even though I have 190 compression across the board there's a small coolant leak across the back where the head is slightly warped.

Now I get to do it again... At least I don't need to rebuild the head this time.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

check your main bearing clearences as well as your rod bearing clearences, if there way out theres your loss of oil pressure.

makes sure you have your head decked true

make sure if you put in any different crank, oem or not, any crank that isnt the one you took out, align bore/hone the block.

buy quality parts, not ebay crap.

best of luck, let me know if you need anything.

-Jason

---------------------------------------
most posts are done from my iPhone please excuse my typos

95 eclipse gs turbo - parting out
2004- dodge dakota
2006 lancer with a fancy wing and really expensive brakes.



~Naturally Aspirated then Pressurized~
Streetworksautomotivetuning.com <~ best friend's shop SUPPORT HIM!

This upcoming monday im gonna be buying CP pistons overbore .20 and eagle h beams that are brand new with a hahn stage 2 manifold and 20g turbo for 600 bucks. might be getting aem cam gears as well. then i gotta find a block and crank. i plan on replacing all the bearings as well. with cleavite bearings. do you think i would be able to just buy a crank and new bearings and be good? or does anything have to be done to the bottom of the block