#129429, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 0
You could probably run that block forever without any failure related to that crack. However, it takes a lot of effort and money to build an engine. It is possible that this crack is an indicator of a larger issue with the engine. It would be a real shame for the engine to slowly fail after you dump tons of money into it, expecially since you noticed the crack and took no action. Blocks can be had fairly cheaply. If you are going to push a block beyond its design conditions, you should probably start with the best block you can find.
#129430, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 1
Thats what I was thinking but wasnt sure. Having a really hard time finding a cheaply priced block around my area.I do know that the head gasket was blown in the same area and thats why the block was pulled.
#129431, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by jesterscorpion Thats what I was thinking but wasnt sure. Having a really hard time finding a cheaply priced block around my area. I do know that the head gasket was blown in the same area and thats why the block was pulled.
#129432, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 3
Cast Iron cracks love to travel under heat. That crack could branch out into the cylinder. Best bet is to find a NEon SOHC block which is the same thing and you should be able to fine one easy.
On the flip side, you have a 50% chance it will never become anything more.
#129443, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 4
You can also look for Avenger 2.0 blocks. I've seen those go for 1/2 of what "2gnt" blocks go for.
Erik P. Official 2GNT thread Hijacker Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be... All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!
#129444, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 4
Well theres a guy near me that is going to be doing the machine work for me and he said that theres a good chance that he can weld it before its decked and it should hold no problem. says it will only cost me about $20 to weld it. Crossing my fingers.
#129445, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 6
Cast iron is one of the trickier metals to weld. The fact that this is a thin little web on a heavy block makes it even more difficult. A person could lay down a superficial weld and machine it flat to make it look perfect, only to fail after repeated heat and stress cycles. If it were me, I would find another block.
#129447, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 7
I would love to find another block but there just doesnt seem to be any near 40403. When I do find them people want like 200 or 300 for them and theres no gaurentee that they are any good either....
#129448, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 8
Dougie had (3) blocks in the FS section for $75 each. He is about 250 miles from you. If you made the trip, you could probably choose whichever one looked the best to you.
#129449, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 8
Originally posted by jesterscorpion I would love to find another block but there just doesnt seem to be any near 40403. When I do find them people want like 200 or 300 for them and theres no gaurentee that they are any good either....
#129460, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 11 Jan-27-10 02:49 PM by Tuxdreamerx
I got one from one of our members for $125 shipped. I bet dougie would be able to sell you one of his for around the same price. Make sure when you buy one that you get the bedplate or you have a piece of scrap metal.
#129464, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 12
Originally posted by Tuxdreamerx I got one from one of our members for $125 shipped. I bet dougie would be able to sell you one of his for around the same price. Make sure when you buy one that you get the bedplate or you have a piece of scrap metal.
#129466, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 13
Originally posted by jesterscorpion
Originally posted by Tuxdreamerx I got one from one of our members for $125 shipped. I bet dougie would be able to sell you one of his for around the same price. Make sure when you buy one that you get the bedplate or you have a piece of scrap metal.
Isnt the bedplate interchangable between blocks.
No. They are Bored out at the same time (block and bedplate). Just like the cam bores in our cars. Specific to the block that they were bored with.
Captain Caveman
96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq 97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq 98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats 99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97 99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!
#129467, "RE: crack in block webbing" In response to Reply # 14
As the other guys said, it's probably not in your best interest to weld the block. Cast iron is very finicky and great care must be taken when welding. Usually what I do is grind down the area to be repaired, hot tank the block, pre-heat the entire block to around 275°F for an hour and then TIG weld it using Ni99 rod. It is very important that you peen the weld immediately while it's still red and I also recommend post-heating the block with a very slow decrease in temperature over a 2-3 hour period.
Again, as stated above, it's better to get another block since these engines as a dime a dozen. I do have several blocks sitting here if you're interested. Feel free to PM me or call the shop at 615-274-9771.
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