So I just got done putting some new injectors (stock replacment) in and put everything back together. Took it for a test spin and when ever I went WOT it hesitated and threw up a code 11. I've cleaned up the harness points for the camshaft pick up and the crankangle pick up. I've also changed the crank angle sensor out with a new one. Nothing seems to be fixing this. HELP!
the last thing I've done was put on a new headgasket before the new injectors. Its just a stock replacment MLS and everything about the car is running goof aside from the obnoxious lifter tick and the new hesitation. The car is timed correctly and idles smooth.
Could the lifter tick cause this somehow? or maybe the magnet on the exhaust cam is somehow 90 degrees out? I seriously can't figure out this one. I'm hoping its not a short on one of the sensors wires.
#129162, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 0 Jan-01-10 01:23 PM by CODE4
Get/rent/acquire and OBDII scan tool and get the actual P0xxx code so you know what you are dealing with. The CEL code is helpful but not narrow enough.
With the actual code you can further diagnose your problem.
Additionally the cam magnet is able to turn 90* unless you shaved the locating pins off.
How does the car start? Normally? Abnormally long cranking?
#129163, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 1
I have pretty basic stuff on it. I'll take it over to autozone and see what the hell is going on with it.
'97 misterbitchy eclipse RS.
Engine performance Mods: Bosal header/ exhaust: basically just a 2" stock replacment exhaust. sounds better than stock though. ebay CAI: cut down in length to both increase throttle responce and still get a cold charge. not that it helps, still has to go right in front of the radiator fans. it being aluminum piping only means that it gets to heat right back up faster. :/ Jeep throttle body mod: got a 55mm one off of a cherokee 4.0L MTX and ported it out to 60mm. And I did get it to work great intake manifold: ported to match the throttle body. also cleaned up all the casting flash out of it. head: decked to run at a 10.4:1 compression ratio. block: bored out .020"
Right now, it runs smooth at idle. it starts to really lose its power around 3k and up because thats where it starts hesitating. It's like the computer isnt getting a signal and thus isn't advancing the ignition at all.
To get it run damn smooth, I need to get some adjustable cam sprockets to optimize the timing and also compensate for the loss of head height so that it can be perfectly in time again. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator wouldnt hurt either I guess. :/ yay poor college student.
#129165, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 0
Just got back. Needed to gas up the car too, they gave me a code without explaination. a P1390. looked up and it's apparently a code where the belt jumped a tooth somewhere. X( So much for the keydance. I'm still going to be looking at all this wiring to make sure nothing is outtawhack. I would muchrather do electrical than take this whole thing appart again to try to get the cams back in line. Besides, why would it idle so smooth if it was off a tooth?
#129166, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 3
If you had the head milled significantly and are using stock cam gears the PCM will throw that code because the crank and cam position signals are not timed correctly.
The amount it may be off could be enough to throw the code and affect ignition timing to cause your symptoms however at low RPM operation not be significant enough to feel.
My suggestion at this point is to install adjustable cam gears, pop the valve cover off and use the locating holes between cylinders 1 & 2 to ensure TDC, and install the timing belt.
#129168, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 4
Thanks for the help. I'm too poor right now to even afford adjautable cam gears due to tuition and all. But I'll save up some cash to make this work. The results should be more than worth it. I've made it run right enough that it wouldnt throw a code before right now and after the rebuild. I'm sure I can do it again. I'll have to post pics for more oppinions and feedback.
#129170, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 0
Is it possible some crappy ignition components and crappy events could make it do this? because what I'm about to tell you describes the engines odd powerband as of now, but doesn't explain the CEL to me. Maybe ya'll can explain the cause and effect here.
Basically, the far left cylinders ignition terminal on the ignition coil pack is rusted over. I don't even know how that happened but I'm going to knock off this rust and seal up the boot connecting to is with dielectric grease. Then the spark plug tube on the far right is FILLED with oil. I know its not bad piston rings pushing oil through the sparkplug because if that were the case, i would have burned a TON oil first. SO I'm just going to have to seal up the valve cover extra good this time. I used the black extra oil resistant crap from autozone. That stuff sucks at doing the job for me though. About the only sealant I've had good luck with is the mopar head gasket sealant and the red hi temp sealent that I use to seal up exhaust components.
If you want, you can cycle through those pics. Didn't bother to block out the license plates because that was 2 states ago now. In one of the pics, you can see when I used to have the EGR and the stock throttle body on it. Also, the camshaft sprockets were pointing directly at eachother. So I know that the cams are in time. If the CEL comes back after these fixes, i will know that it really is out of time, probably at the crankshaft.
#129182, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 9
Originally posted by teklein P1390. Haha. Story time. I have had that code since I bought my car. Timed perfectly, checked everything. One day, I popped the ECU out and put it in a friends car. Guess what went with it? The P1390 code. My car did not have any of the other symptoms you say. Just the CEL. That code doesnt actually do anything.
Haha. Same thing here my black 98 talon, randomly threw that CEL one day with no symptoms. I checked timing it was still perfect, I suspected the ECU but never really had another 98 ECU to just try out and did not really care since the car was running ok.
#129173, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 7
Originally posted by Volgrath Is it possible some crappy ignition components and crappy events could make it do this? because what I'm about to tell you describes the engines odd powerband as of now, but doesn't explain the CEL to me. Maybe ya'll can explain the cause and effect here. Basically, the far left cylinders ignition terminal on the ignition coil pack is rusted over. I don't even know how that happened but I'm going to knock off this rust and seal up the boot connecting to is with dielectric grease. Then the spark plug tube on the far right is FILLED with oil. I know its not bad piston rings pushing oil through the sparkplug because if that were the case, i would have burned a TON oil first. SO I'm just going to have to seal up the valve cover extra good this time. I used the black extra oil resistant crap from autozone. That stuff sucks at doing the job for me though. About the only sealant I've had good luck with is the mopar head gasket sealant and the red hi temp sealent that I use to seal up exhaust components. Next post will be some funny pics.
Don't use any sealant on your valve cover gaskets other than where the joints and corners are. I made the mistake once of coating the gaskets with sealant and it pissed oil like a racehorse. You may need a new valve cover if you can't clean all that gunk out because it prevents the gaskets from seating properly. If you absolutely HAVE to use some sealant just use the smallest dab here and there to help hold the gaskets in place while you're putting the cover back on.
Erik P. Official 2GNT thread Hijacker Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be... All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!
#129175, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 11
Thanks for the advice man, but unfortunatly it differs with my car. You see, I did exactly what you said right after the rebuild, and it pissed oil all over the engine bay. I'm not saying what your saying isn't correct over all. I'm just saying that with mine, it actually calls for some sort of sealant.
I really doubt that computer fault is going on with my car. But to keep on going with the hilarious day I'm having. The spark plug boot that connected to the rusty terminal on the ignition coil pack. It looked like the spark plug wires connection piece that connects to that termial was MISSING. How was this car running smoothly?! SO, I logiced it out and pushed on the wire to shove the wire into the boot some more to see if it was missing. APPARENTLY someone pranked me (don't know who yet) by pulling the connection piece into the boot to make it look like it was missing and just enough to make sure it would still touch the terminal just barely. That connection piece was there, but damn was it rusty as hell as well.
Cleaned that up too as well as the terminal on the ignition coil pack. I'm not complaining yet because I would rather it be just abunch of easy things than re-timing the engine, or rebuilding it. Not as hard as on a lincoln Mark VIII, just time consuming.
#129176, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 12
Originally posted by Volgrath SO, I logiced it out...
Huh?
Originally posted by Volgrath APPARENTLY someone pranked me (don't know who yet) by pulling the connection piece into the boot to make it look like it was missing and just enough to make sure it would still touch the terminal just barely.
Ummm... really? Why do you suspect a prank in this situation over poor mechanical skill?
#129179, "RE: CEL 11 problem" In response to Reply # 15
Just get yourself a new coil, a set of ignition wires, and new plugs. Go for NGK BKR6E plugs. As Tim said above, I highly doubt anyone pranked you. Its common with old wires that they will get brittle and the electrode connector may break off and/or get pushed into the boot.
Also, when you reseal the valve cover, make sure you do it as described above. Make sure any old RTV in the valve cover groove is removed, only use a dab of RTV at joints and bends, and do not use any RTV on the spark plug seals. If you do this correctly and are still spitting oil, you may have a warped valve cover and its time to get a new one.
1999 Eclipse GS Built motor Hahn 16G Turbo w/ FMIC Hahn Stage 5 Portfueler (270's & 500's) Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband w/ 3.5bar MAP 3" SS Turbo Back CM Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel Baer Big Brake Kit
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