I have been doing some wondering. Woudl it be better to put all solid motor mounts in? or just to do the front one with Poly mounts on the other 3? Its curiosity. Also where would I be able to get a solid front mount? I have done some checking locally. I know a few people that would make one for me. But I much rather get one that has been proven or made by a 2gnt'r.
Just a few little questions. Thanks in advance.

I noticed that once you make one mount firmer, the opposite one gets a lot more stress put on it. I installed bushing inserts for the front mount and it caused nothing but trouble for my rear motor mount.

If you are going to upgrade any motor mount, upgrade the rear first, so you never have to deal with it again. It really sucks to get to and if you are messing with it more than once you are doing something wrong.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Check with bullet , he has a friend that makes solid front mounts and look really good. I asked bullet about them and he said that he uses it on the turbo car and has worked great...

At least I am getting one, but I want a rear solid one too. But the guy that makes them needs a few more people that would like them as well for him to make them. So I think we could make a group to show there is a need for a rear solid mount.

Any other members that want one speak up so we can get this guy to make them.

Status- Need to do break-in...



Try not to challenge me, I'd rather tie up than lose. Either way you NEVER WIN.... - Me..

You do not want solid side mounts. It has been done and the passenger sheet metal around the mount failed causing the owner a great deal of grief

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Rule of thumb is that you will just need the front roll stop solid (provided that the other roll stop is good). Then for the "other" axis of support,I would put a poly insert in for the big mount by the timing belt.

In all three of my 2gnt's I have a solid up front and poly's all around except for the mount on the nose of the tranny. I left that stock because it honestly see's little stress.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I was talking to a friend of mine here in Jacksonville. He suggested doing the front solid. and the other three with a poly. Pretty much the same that is suggested by most of the community that replied already. I think I know what route I want to take now. Is there anyone in North or central Florida that has this set up? Anyone from Orlando to North Jax.

You've pretty much got a concensus anyways, but do not put in a solid rear. That is, unless you want to see your dash flapping. I briefly installed a rock hard rear mount to compliment my rock hard front mount. The entire body/glass of the car turned into a speaker cone that amplified everything happening in the transmission. If I was engine braking down from highway speeds, the vibration would often pass through the natural frequency of my interior. At that frequency, the sound was oppressive, the dask would flap, and all three mirrors turned to a blur. If it was a Delorean, I would have expected to end up in 1955. A slightly softer rear mount cleared all of that up.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

Thanks for the heads up there. I was considering. But now I am pretty stuck on a solid front with poly for the other three.
Glad yall are so helpful here. Yall really are life savers. My mounts are so shot that I can feel the motor move everytime I accelerate or slow down. But I am going to have those fixed ASAP now that I have a proven route to run. Thanks again.

You can pick up a Prothane kit from Summit for around 65 bucks that will have the the polyurethane inserts for every mount. They also sell them individually.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-13-1901BL/

I contributed to the Wiki.

I also have the inserts if you want them. I hate vibration, it ruins the feel of the car.

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

I would not recommended solid monts. If you want there are some Companys out ther makin delrin insirts for our mounts that are just as good with not as much vibration. Disturbing motor sports is one and cheetah online is another. I can post links when I get home but they are very nice and are what I use in my DD.

___________________________________________________________________________
13psi on a built bottom end with a stock now mtx, check mate.

I am currently running the Energy Suspension inserts on all four mounts and I like it.

However, I did just purchase a solid front mount from Bullets friend and this will be going on the car soon. I will be happy to let you know how much of a change I feel when I do this.

1999 Eclipse GS
Built motor
Hahn 16G Turbo w/ FMIC
Hahn Stage 5 Portfueler (270's & 500's)
Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband w/ 3.5bar MAP
3" SS Turbo Back
CM Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel
Baer Big Brake Kit

And the bonus is, if you get a 2G GSX, you can transfer the solid mount from your 2gnt. She fits like a glove

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

What is the name of that stuff you use to fill the mounts? I was planning on doing that to mine, but my whole project got put on hold due to some financial problems for so long i forgot everything! lol.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Yup, 3M Window Weld

Where do you get it? home depot or something like that?

Status- Need to do break-in...



Try not to challenge me, I'd rather tie up than lose. Either way you NEVER WIN.... - Me..

__________________________________
-Ryan

Yep, i just thought of the name like a half hour after i posted. I think its the best way imo. cheaper than inserts and you dont have to pay for shipping.

Its been awhile, Clutch blew out on me. Should have known. I was going to do the pl-400, a friend mentioned that. I think I am going to do the window weld though. Sounds like a good idea, and a great alternative to shipping cost. lol. But when the clutch blew, I replaced the tie rod ends, as well as the oil pressure sending unit, they all broke. Went with the F1 clutch that is mentioned alot on here. I love this site. Helps so much. Just wish I had a computer so I could be on here more often.

I did the window weld on the front and back mounts a few days a go. Filled them up till it looked like solid piece of ruber then I let them dry for a few days.... Those things are like rocks now! ...lol

Can't say how the feel on the car cuz I still have no engine..

But if you want a really solid mount go for the window weld and let it dry like 2 or 3 days under the sun....

Status- Need to do break-in...



Try not to challenge me, I'd rather tie up than lose. Either way you NEVER WIN.... - Me..

Alright. I guess its off to the junkyard I go. Lol. My 2G is my daily/only. I dont know if I could let them set out in the sun, odd as it sounds, we had snow in Daytona beach this morning. So, yeah. lol. Although that does give me something to do on my days off from work. I desperately need the mounts still. Especially since my clutch is no longer slipping, did the flush with dealer fluid. $25 a quart in Orange Park. But I wanted the dealer proven fluid. I appreciate the info, I so badly want the equivelent of front and rear solids. Luckily when I had my tranny out, my driver side mount looks nearly brand new, my passenger is also in good shape. Thanks again to everyone on this site that has helped point me in the right direction.

I'm telling that they must be out drying that long because the center of the material sometimes is not hard yet even if the outside is solid and dry.... you maybe able to do it in less just use a needle or something sharp and slim. Then poke the area you filled as deep as you can to see if it's still not hard on the inside. If you mount them while they are soft on the inside as soon as the mount gets squeezed by the weight of the engine and tranny you will see polyurethane coming out of the mounts... And you will have lost the work you did on the mounts....

I did notice that the heat in the engine bay is good for the hardening process so may be you can strap the other mount near the exhaust and bake them .....lol I think it should work, but dont recomend you do it while the car is moving. Maybe you could put them in and leave the car idling a while maybe rev it a bit and let the mounts "cure" with the heat...

Status- Need to do break-in...



Try not to challenge me, I'd rather tie up than lose. Either way you NEVER WIN.... - Me..

Filling it in layers would work better for curing time.

Add one layer, wait a 2-3 hrs, add another... until you are done.

I was able to get mine done in about a day and it felt pretty hard.

__________________________________
-Ryan

Nice. Like the ideas.

I filled mine all at once and then just let it sit near my radiator for a few days. Thing was rock solid.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Ok not trying to pull a old threat from the graveyard...But what about the write up corbin did with the urethane. 8644K13 85A
I read up on that, is it not better than the window weld? Or PL-400

‹noboost› Four gee's and 63 years ago, our forefathers brought forth on this continent, a new dsm, concieved in Normal Illiniois...