ok i have a 95 rs its been sitting for about 4 months now do to no power going to the coil... i omhsed out all the wires going to the pcm to the sensors everything is good... im wondering if it could be the pcm.. any help will help me out my wife wants me to sell it but i dont want to......thanks
Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim
#127986, "RE: no power to coil" In response to Reply # 1
2 sensors to focus on. CMP and CKP. Backprobe the harness at the ECU where these signals are and have someone crank the engine as if trying to start it. Make sure your multimeter is set to VDC.
While cranking, you need to see an alternating 5VDC from both of these sensors. The CMP is easier to spot because the cams turn at half engine speed. Without these signals, the ECU trips the ASD relay, which cuts power to the coil.
Ohming the conductors was a smart start, but you have to check the alternating DC voltage (signal) to be sure the sensors are working. If it turns out the sensors are working, try pulling the ASD relay and reconnecting it. If you've got a spare relay lying around that you know is good, you could swap that out as well, but do one test at a time.
If you've got CMP/CKP/ASD and the car still doesn't start, I'd start thinking ECU.
#127987, "RE: no power to coil" In response to Reply # 2
Also, Make sure when you are testing for 12+ at the coil, the engine is cranking or immediately after the key is turned on. The ECU will power up the ASD Relay for 20-30 secs after the key is turned on.
If you still do not have 12+ at the coil then test at the ASD relay. The wire from the ECU is a ground signal. Test for ground on the ECU wire during cranking or right after you turn the key on. If you have have ground during those conditions the test the power (12+) to the relay. Two wires at the relay will have 12+ at ALL times. If you do have 12+ at all times coming to the relay then you have a bad relay.
If you dont have 12+ coming to the relay, then you have a blown fuseable link or fuse.
Sorry i dont have a schmeatic nearby otherwise i would give you wire colors.
Use jumper leads to connect relay terminal #6 to the positive battery terminal and terminal #4 to the negative battery terminal. Check the continuity between relay terminal #2 and #8 while connecting and disconnecting the jumper lead at the negative battery terminal.
19:22:36 ‹hazard_eclipse› btw disclaimer: I am NOT hazardeclipse 19:23:10 ‹ez› 19:14:00 ‹hazard_eclipse› i honestly hate yellow. 19:23:25 ‹hazard_eclipse› lol good you saw that 19:23:55 ‹ez› you should put that in your sig