I've looked a lot, but i'm looking for more info on this swap. Can someone point me in the right direction?

I'm broke, it's broken. I'm broke because it's broken. It's broken because I'm broke.

Simplicity Car Club - Founding Member

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=2.4L_Discussion_by_Skrilla

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

A quick run down off the top of my head since its been a few years.

Get creative with the motor mount on the passenger side. I just redrilled the hole where it ended up. Also on the brackets for that side I used all the caravan stuff since its what I had. You have to shim out certain areas and grind off others to get everything to clear the timing belt.

Turn your stock cam gears over to the side that says 2.4 but index them as they would be on the 2.0 side.

If you'll be running on the stock pcm move all the backwires for the injectors down one cylinder 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and 4-1. Along with this pull the 1st and 3rd wire out of the plug for your coil and switch them.

*edit* this is to trick the pcm into thinking that #1 cylinder is at TDC but in reality #2 will be. Thought I would share this since one could freak out really bad when setting up the timing and not having #1 up where you thought it would be.

Use the 2.4 fuel injectors of course.

File the locating nipple off of the cam sensor and rotate it 90* advanced, you move it counter-clockwise when facing it.

You'll have to have the oil pan notched for the exhaust since the motor was set up for the exhaust comming from the back of the head instead of the front. Or you could be a dick like me and just have your exhaust hang entirely tooooooooo close to the ground. Either way you will need to add length to your down pipe.

I'm sure I left something out but this should get you started. Its really way simpler than you would expect while doing it. ALL of the info for the swap is on here. I did my swap entirely from info on this site along with some help from other members.


2.4 Swapped again...

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=318202

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2012 2500HD LML

Yeah, thanks. If you guys have more, help me out. I've searched high and low, and that neon write up is by far the most comprehensive. I think my plan is to get a running short block and swap it in to get everything working right, then on the side build another for turbocharging. I just figured out that you can use the engine out of the caravan, and it makes me happy because for some reason, salvage yards seem to want a whole lot more money for ones out of the cloud cars. I am looking for one on the cheap side, and my friend is guessing 100-150 shouldn't be too hard. Does the passenger side mount come from the stratus, or the 1G Eclipse/Talon/Laser? I've read both. I've got on my parts list so far:

Short block (EDZ)(Junkyard)
1G Eclipse/Talon/Laser engine mount (Junkyard)
UDP for 2.4 block (Unorthodox)
PT Cruiser water inlet neck and o-ring (Neck from junkyard, O-Ring from Auto Zone)
PT Alternator bracket (Junkyard)
Injectors from 2.4L
EGR Blockoff Kit



My assumptions are :
My transmission (5 speed) will bolt right up.
My head and coolant hard lines will all work properly with the new block.
My PCM will work with the swapped pins to change firing order.
My wiring harness will work.
My intake and exhaust system will work.
My oil pan will work.

Help me out with my list, and let me know if any of my assumptions are wrong. I'm hoping to get this well ironed out well before I even think about cracking that passenger motor mount. My hope is to keep the budget on the initial swap to ~500 bucks. The build. I can then do at my leisure, whenever I have the extra cash to throw at it.

My understanding is that basically, it's the same block, but taller. This worries me, because it means that my hood won't clear the valve cover. How much of a PITA will it be to make it fit under the hood. Will I have to go all crazy rice for a while with a big ass hole in my hood, or is it going to be a matter of some washers here and an adjustment there?

Sorry for the long nature of my post. I want this to work WELL, because otherwise, I'm completely and totally boned. This is my daily driver, and with the clouds of oil (Looks like #4 ring failure in the past 7,000 miles, but could plausibly be head gasket), I'm not holding high hopes of this thing making it to 140,000.

Keep the wealth of info coming. It's what I'm studying while I'm not studying accounting.

~NACHO~

I'm broke, it's broken. I'm broke because it's broken. It's broken because I'm broke.

Simplicity Car Club - Founding Member

I really haven't searched for this info in a while but I've never heard of using a 1st gen anything. Everything I used I had which was a 2000 caravan motor completely dressed and all the 2.0 stuff. While you're pulling the caravan motor you might as well just pull the whole thing dressed like I did and sell the head and almost pay off the rest of the motor. No sense scavanging the van and a pt cruiser. Like you said the caravans are cheaper and way more plentiful than could cars and cruisers. With this being said I don't have A/C or powersteering because I really didn't give a damn and try to make it work. Others have sourced brackets from other vehicles and made it work.

The lower water pipe for the caravan works fine, all I did was weld a tab on the pipe so it bolts to the stock location.

Yeah, your tranny bolts up and works along with anything from the head up with the exception of the head bolts in which you will need a set for a 2.4

As for wiring, changing the pins is a good way to do it, but I got another 2.0 injector harness and rewired the 4 backwires just to make it easier if I swapped back. Swapping the 2 pins on the coil plug itself is cake.

The motor sits taller but mine doesn't hit to the hood to say. There is one spot where you can tell it barely touches the insulation. You will have to add length to your downpipe though if nothing else.

$500 is a longshot though in my book. In theory like I said before, all you need is a dressed 2.4 motor and you will have everything you need. IMO go ahead and swap a new oil and water pump with the o-ring, get a set of new plugs and a timing belt. You may need a t-belt tensioner too if you dick the plastic allen holes in the tensioner. Get a new set of headbolts and a new gasket set for sure, and if you cheap out you WILL need atleast a headgasket.

I've had a 2.4 for over 4 years now and had no problems from the swap besides being a dick and killing the 1st motor myself.

2.4 Swapped again...

How much would you guys say I need to budget for this swap? Give me a total without budget for the block, if you can, since prices are so divergent.

Also, someone give me a little more solid idea about how to handle the passenger side motor mount.

If I pick up the Haynes, should I pick one up for the cloud cars, or for the vans, or would it be basically the same?

I'm broke, it's broken. I'm broke because it's broken. It's broken because I'm broke.

Simplicity Car Club - Founding Member

Will I need to mod the exhaust to pull this off? Will it fit and/or flow stock?

I'm broke, it's broken. I'm broke because it's broken. It's broken because I'm broke.

Simplicity Car Club - Founding Member

http://zero-signal.org/2.4L/FSM-99EDZ.pdf <-- FSM for 99 Stratus 2.4

Exhaust downpipe will need modification since the motor sits higher. Also depending on what oil pan you choose you will need modifications.

Passenger motor mount? Use the mount that bolts to the front of the motor obviously, and as for the frame side of the mount you will need to fab up something that will attach to the motor bracket.

Price list? Start shopping and adding things up. You are getting damn close to pushing the laziness button now. As with all builds it depends on what components you decide to run. Look it up.

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2012 2500HD LML