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You should know which cylinder its in (this is, of course, provided you put your cams in correctly). If you still got it together, you can also figure out if its an exhaust or an intake valve. When you have it off, just use water into the ports to narrow it down to which valve (with the amount of PSSHH, that you describe it should be easy enough to pick out).
Once you have the valve identified try hitting it with a soft mallett on the top of the retainer. Then check to see if it still leaks. Sometimes (rarely, but sometimes) you can get a piece of dirt etc. between the seat and the valve. If that's the case (and she doesn't leak now) just pull out the offending valve and re-lap it in. Then check again when its back together.
If not then take out the valve and see if it slides up and down freely in the guide (possible sticky valve guide/ valve situation) Or, if its not sticky, check the valve to see if its bent (usually bent at the head). I just spin the valve in my fingers (by the stem) and do a visual check. You could actually chuck it into a drill chuck (carefully) if you want.
Captain Caveman
96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq 97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq 98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats 99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97 99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!
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