I own a 03/95 vehicle.

The car is a fed/cali. spec. ATX car.

I removed the ATX, and wanted to run a MTX pcm for the higher redline.

reference OEM PCM I don't have its P/N unfortunately.

however I had installed a 5013113 P/N ecu, which I was told was the wrong pin out for my harness, so I purchased a, M05269656 P/N ecu.

today when I installed it, I again came to have no ground activation on my main relay with Key ON.

relay works, if I ground the pcm control pin on the relay, I then receive power to coil. I have all 3 grounds PLUS sensor grounds grounded to battery, I also have, all J/C grounds looped and grounded to battery.

I have fused power input, and I have Key On power input.

I guess my last and only question is, do Federal vs California Specification PCMs vary pin outs. both PCMs I have tried are Federal, however being that my car is California Spec. means my harness is California Spec. and maybe that is my problem; I need a California spec PCM, such as P/N M05269653/M05269729 RP. Which specifies 10/94 - 6/95 5spd M/T Cali, vs the 656 which fits the same car only Federal emissions. Also, alldata is stating that a cali spec 95 car gets this P/N 5269729. and the M/T and A/t get the 656 regardless if it is Fed or Cali spec.

what is every ones take, because I am getting stumped.

Holy hell this is a messy problem. You have done your homework, so I don't think you'll find an easy answer. If you want to verify the pin-outs, you could record the wire colors of your CA-ATX harness and compare it to this page:

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=1995 ECU

My 95 Fed spec ATX and MTX ECUs matched that, although the labels on the plug were mirrored. I would be a little surprised if your pin-outs were different, but it is worth checking. How about the other outputs? Does your fuel pump turn on? Will the starter turn? If you force the ASD relay on, can you start the engine?

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

upon my wire tuck and removing all the ATX wiring. i removed the fuel pump relay and the other 2 relays on the fire wall, i did this because i was going to make stand alone circuits with larger gauge wiring.

right now i have a Stinger Power Distribution block fed off the battery with (1) 80a and (1) 100a fuse. One of those fuses the 100a, feeds all the main 10gauge wiring that goes to the fuse box, which i relocated to under my dash, the 80a fuse feeds a 4an wire that I ran directly to the starter. under my steering column i put the factory starter relay, cut and shortened the factory 12/14 gauge ignition switched power sources to the relay, ran a 12 gauge ground right to battery and ran a 12 gauge power to the starter solenoid. when key is turned to start i have power to the pin to solenoid, however i refuse to dry crank my motor until i am ready to start it.

next question. out of the PCM is a FUEL PUMP CONTROL wire, which again is a PCM controlled ground. with KEY ON fuel pump should prime. meaning that i should have ground activation with key on. I DO NOT. i supplied a 10 gauge fused power to my relay, an Ignition power to the relay 10 gauge, the PCM control (factory white with red stripe), and then the feed to the pump 10 gauge. Pump is then grounded to battery. Pump does not prime unless i use test light ground onto relay.

IF I provide test light ground to ASD relay red with a white stripe. ALL Sensors and Switches that utilize a Black with Red Stripe 12V power source then obtain 12V. Coil, 02 sensors, Alternator, EGR Solenoid, Injectors, and 3rd power source to PCM. all off of J/C 3 row 2.

Row 1 is all PCM main fuse linked power and all sensor and PCM ground.
Row 2 is all PCM activated FROM ASD relay powers.
Row 3 i forget off the top of my head but can look for more info.

IF i supply a switched ignition power to ROW 2 and provide a SWITCHED ignition GROUND to the ASD relay and FUEL PUMP relay, theoretically everything will work to ideal. However I will still always wonder WTF happened and why didn't i get it to work like harness design.

hope this helped a little more on what i am dealing with.

ALSO, with EITHER PCM that i have right now the 13113 and 565 installed into harness with KEY ON ENGINE OFF, i have my 5v reference to my main computer referenced sensors IE. TPS, CPS, CKPS, ect. which tells me the PCM recognizes those sensors and will send/ receive signal/communication with those sensors. i guess my biggest stink here, is WTF isnt any PCM I use grounding the things the PCM is designed to ground.

here is my problem I THINK. maybe someone can shine some light on this with me.





the top Picture is the Pin out to the PCM which correlates to my harness, the exact pins and wire colors MATCH my harness PERFECTLY.

the bottom picture is what correlates to what our WIKI is telling me a 95 PCM looks like.

Obviously completely different.

how do I know what PCM has what pin out?!?!

Well, at least we know why the 5013113 ECU didn't work. My 1995 Fed ATX harness matches what is in the wiki, which was pulled from my 1995 Talon shop manual. Forget I mentioned the mirrored pin-out thing (I was looking at the harness side instead of ECU side). I ran a 5013113 and 5013115 on my harness with full functionality, so we know that they match the wiki. You have a different harness that should be documented. From what manual was that taken?

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

that first picture i posted was out of alldata, I have an account with them. i pulled that out of a 1995 dodge avenger, which is what my car is anyways, alldata also claims that a 95 avenger should use the 565 PCM which i currently have sitting in my car which does not work, HOWEVER, for the automatic it states i should use 5269729 if i am a california car which is what my chassis is. alldata also states that weather you are ATX or MTX you should use the 565 if you have a federal chassis.

it states that a 95 eclipse however should use a 13113 or 13115 depending on if you are ATX or MTX.

should i try to find a 729 computer, and just cut my losses on the higher redline? is their anyway to tie a resistor into the circuit to obtain a higher redline such as with the speed limiter?

this is the computer i currently have

9410.1-9506.3 _ RS/GS,5FM/T Fed.____M05269656/M04874191 RP

the first computer i tried was an MO5269656 and reprogrammed to a 5013113

i think my next option maybe is to try a 9410.1-9506.3 _ RS/GS,5FM/T Cal.____M05269653/M05269729 RP

and according to this chart i have this should have been the computer i was using. 9410.1-9506.3 _ A/T (All RS/GS)______M05269658/M04874192

as you can see i guess i basically have tried the same computer twice these last few times, being that they both break down to a 656.

the 653 aka the 729 is the same computer as the 656 only cali spec.

the third computer is its ATX sister.

all 3 are built for 10 of 1994 to 06 of 1995.... my car is a 03 of 1995.

what do you think?

If you can obtain an affordable 5269729, that seems like the logical choice. A google search pegs that as a 1995 Avenger 2.0l Cali w/ MT. I am assuming that the Cali model has the high redline like the Fed model. Alternatively, you could dissassemble the connector to make the pin-outs match your ECU. That would be a desperate move, though.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki