So it's been like 5 years on my engine, boosting 18 now, and am getting some low compression test numbers (100-120). I only had around 145 to begin with when I built it, so I know I'm not using Total Seal rings again... Did some post-build reading on them and they're not street-engine friendly because of part-throttle oiling, giving knock and oil consumption (both are experienced!). So anywho, when I get some time in a few weeks I'm gonna re-ring it, and found EngineTech brand w/ moly top ring on Parts Dinosaur, wondering if anyone's tried/had luck with them.
Also (chalk it up to time lapse) can anyone tell me if a re-ring can be done in-frame? i believe so, as long as the engine is supported when the pass-side mount is pulled. I don't have the equipment I had available when I worked at my old job, so yeah. Thanks!

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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

Just get the rings from PartsDinosaur. I've got them in one of my Galants and they do just fine.

I'm pretty sure you can re-ring the engine with the block in the car. The critical thing is keeping track of which rod end cap came off which rod and pointing which direction. Mix 'em up, even with the right cap on backwards, and you'll find you get the last bolt tightened and the crank won't want to turn.

So lose the rod caps, pop the pistons up through the deck, and then double check your ring gaps. The gaps on the rings I got from PD in the Galant happened to be gapped right, but I double checked them to make sure they were not only within spec (this time), but that they were also the same across all four cylinders.

Do eet.

If you plan on re-ringing the motor with it in the vehicle I would check the cylinder out of round and taper. If within spec check for cylinder glaze and the cross hatching to see if it needs a hone.

Check ring end gap for consistency.

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2012 2500HD LML

Yeah, I know about keeping the rods/caps matching, and the eagles are a split-grain style so they really only go together one way! I'll be sure to check bore consistency, also. I'd planned on honing it (always do in a re-ring), but haven't with the moly (machine shop did it the first time). I've heard something like you use a non-graphite hone, because the moly ring are pre-lubed? Not really sure what that is all about, just know for sure to use about 400 grit for moly tops.

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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

Just another note, found out some interesting things for future reference on Total Seal rings:

Supposedly they're great and fantastic and have no blow-by, which by and large is true, but to a fault. They seal so well, that they allow no blow-by on up strokes, compiling the little amount of oil applied by the oiling ring. This results in prime locations for detonation if only under moderate load/speed. Under full drag conditions, the motor's barely in this state so it's not a huge factor, but on a street engine it sucks. I've been plagued by a partial load (~60/70 kPa, 2500-3500 RPM) knock, and is seems like no matter what I set my MS values of fuel and spark at I can't get rid of it, been like that since I built the engine. After hearing about this phenomenom, it makes total sense now.

So just a note for people lookin at different rings when building, make sure to match types with application, do your homework, blah blah blah. I learned my lesson (granted I've got like 50k miles on the built engine by now), but I'll be goin back to standard type rings with measured gaps and a proper PCV/catchcan system.

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

IF your going to do a re-ring you must deglaze the cylinder walls and check the out-of-round and for cylinder taper. When you get done deglazign the walls, how do you plan to wash the metal debris off the bottom (interior) of the block?

I recommend Total seal conventional rings.

Total seal is a company, not a ring style. Your describing GAPLESS rings which total seal makes. Total seal also makes a conventional ring which i have. If you do a search, the gapless rings worked well but another 2GNT member found out you cannot run a traditional PCV setup.

i love my JE rings

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Topline or Hastings rings will get the job done just fine, both fit like oem..

www.cimotorsports.net

I'm running low comp JEs, so I am using JE rings (Its been 5 years, and still 190's +/-2 across, tighter clearance, low boost). There are too many horror stories in the past with Total Seal Gapless rings. I think Jason ESi-T was the only one with success with those rings.

-K-