So I've finally got done putting in the new running engine into my 96 eclipse. With hopes high I cranked it for a while but it didn't start. It has good compression, it's getting spark, but for some reason it's not getting any fuel... I checked and the fuel rail is got pressure and has plenty of fuel, so for some reason the injectors aren't firing. I'm not getting any cel's so i'm really confused. Anyone have any idea why the injectors wouldn't fire? The connector it plugged in and the wires all seam fine. Thanks for any help.
-Jason

We need more details here. What kind of EMS are you running? Stock injectors? It seems you got a grasp and the fundamentals of what is required for an internal combustion engine so I will assume you can use a multimeter.

Crank the engine while testing for current at the injector harness. If you are not getting anything then back trace the circuit and start eliminating possibilities.

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2012 2500HD LML

Thanks for the reply. Eveything is stock right now so it makes it a bit easier to diagnose. Yeah guess I need to check voltage at the injectors. I'm trying to figure out what's in common with all 4 injectors not firing... Thanks for the help. O and I checked all the fuses, and the relay comes on and primes, haven't check it yet for a signal to the injectors to fir ethough, not sure how to test it for that.

Edit: It seams that the tachometer does move at all when it cranking. It stays at 0 rpms...
Also, the CEL comes on after a couple seconds of cranking then turns off once I stop cranking. Does it normally do this?

No tach signal could mean that your harness hit the EGR pipe and melted, killing the signal from the cam sensor. that would prevent your injectors from firing.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

The wiring harness appears to be fine, it hasn't run yet since I've been trying to put a working engine in it. How do I check the cam sensor to rule it out though?

hmmm, I missed the fresh engine bit earlier. someone refresh my memory, which two plugs were the same that it's easy to mix up when installing an engine? speed sensor and something else?

you might have switched those, I know that prevents firing.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

Really, would this also prevent the injectors from firing? Anyone know the wire colors I should look for to make sure I got the right ones hooked up and not switched? Thanks.

VSS usesd a solid yellow power wire. Coil doesn't.

You'll never see tach movement on cranking. Doesn't work that way.

Check your cam position sensor (CMP), if it is not connected, backwards, or otherwise nonfunctional, you won't get injector triggers.

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If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Ya, i'd go with a cam angle first. That can fuck a few things up...However, doesn't the stock ECU use the cam angle for ignition as well as fuel??? or did is just dream that up...
I love my car...
I love Horsepower...
I love reliability...
So why do i own a DSM again?

Originally posted by Warmage12
Ya, i'd go with a cam angle first. That can fuck a few things up...However, doesn't the stock ECU use the cam angle for ignition as well as fuel??? or did is just dream that up... I love my car... I love Horsepower... I love reliability... So why do i own a DSM again?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by Warmage12 Ya, i'd go with a cam angle first. That can fuck a few things up...However, doesn't the stock ECU use the cam angle for ignition as well as fuel??? or did is just dream that up... I love my car... I love Horsepower... I love reliability... So why do i own a DSM again?

Just stop trying to help.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Hmm I'm thinking maybe it's the Crank angle sensor, anyone know where this is located? I was able to verify today that it's not getting spark eather. And the cam sensor seams to test out.

CAS - crank angle sensor

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Ok I made progress, it is the Crank sensor, it wasn't plugged in, man did I feel stupid. Anyways, trying to plug it in became impossible then I realized that the sensor was different and wouldn't fit in the connector. Luckily I still have the old engine lieing around so I took the CAS sensor out of it, but when I tried to take the sensor out of the engine currently in the car, it snapped and now I'm at a loss. Can I take the oil pan off and pry it out, or force it inside the engine to make it fall out perhaps? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for the help so far you guys are awesome with the help.

Ok, update, so I spend a couple hours today, and got the new old broken crankshaft position sensor out, and the new one in and plugged into its connector. Now I went to start the car but it still cranks, and immidately the CEL comes on like before... Do I need to clear the ecu before it'l start or is there another problem perhaps? Thanks for the help

1. disconnect battery
2. wait 15 mins (min)
3. restart

go from there. I broke my CAS once, wasn't any fun finding another. Good to hear you figured it out. by the way, mike, your post was unbelievably hilarious

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Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Ok, so now I'm at a total loss, dissconnected the battery, even went as far as to rent an ob2 scan tool to clear the codes, only to find out that there aren't any codes stored in the ecu. And it STILL won't start, no spark, no fuel from injectors, and no CEL... Fuel pump primes just fine, everything else seams fine, but it won't start... GAHHh I'm really at a loss, any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: CEL comes on cranking, but dissapears when I stop cranking... and scanner says no codes.

do you still not have spark and fuel or are you getting it now with the new CAS?

did you do the timing belt when switching out the engines?

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Still not getting spark/fuel... No I didn't change the timing belt cause the guy claims he recently replaced it, I looked at it and it looks pretty good. I had to use the old crankshaft position sensor from the blown engine because of the connector type was different. So I'm thinking maybe the crank sensor I used from the old engine is bad, and unfortunatly I broke the other sensor from the new engine trying to get it out.. Can I test the sensor by backprobing it with the key on, and seeing if it oscillates between .3-5V?

im sorry but this reminds me of when i did my first build. the damn thing would not start for nothing and i did everything. i ended up taking to a shop and it even took them a week to try to start it. they didnt tell me why but i hope in never happens again

haha, dang now I'm still confused... Going to try and backprobe the crank sensor and manually see if it's giving an oscillating signal to the PCM...

Fixed it. For future reference the crankshaft position sensor itself was bad. Tested the signal wire and it didn't oscillate when the crankshaft moved, installed a new one and it fire right up. Thanks for all the help people.