I'm putting a UDP on my RS and decided to do the timing belt at the same time. What I need to know is what all to replace. I have a Gates timing belt and an OEM water pump. Should I replace the tensioner, idler pulley(s) and something I believe is called a camshaft balancer belt? And anything I might have missed? I don't want to cheap out here and kick myself in the ass later. The car has 139,000 miles on it and I have NO idea when it was last done. Thanks

Just found out one is an idler pulley and the other a tensioner pulley. Still need to know the total package please.

When ever I do a timing belt(just did one) I always replace the tensioner, idler, timing belt, with OEM stuff. If its about time or there is any question about the other stuff(aka water pump) go ahead and replace it. I switched over to a mechanical tensioner and I like it but thats up to each person. Most of the time when something happens with a mechanial tensioner its installer error. To each his own though...

Thanks, Tim. Good to hear from you. Have any opinions on a "standard" tensioner vs. a mechanical one? Also does OEM mean strictly factory or are the OEM claims by other manufacturers valid? Thanks again.

The official list.
T-belt
water pump
tensioner and pulley
idler pulley

that should take care of you

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Thanks for the official list, Erik. Not to doubt or repeat myself but is there something called a camshaft balancer belt that might be of concern? Don't know where I heard or read of it but just want to be sure. Thanks again.

Thanks, Slo. I like the sound of a mechanical tensioner. Whats the other kind, spring loaded or something? Or just stationary? I'll check it out though. Much apperciated.

There is a hydraulic and a manual. I use the manual as well.

Also, the 420A does not have a balance shaft, so no need for a balance shaft belt

There has been some hydraulic tensioners that have had the "ear" that the plunger pushes on break but the main reason for going to the mechanical tensioner is sheer cost. The mechanical is cheaper, and OEM means from the dealer, either Dodge(generaly cheaper than mitsu) or Mitsubishi.

Let's also not forget the info from the Parts Dinosaur site (linked to Neons.org) comparing the two types of tensioners:

http://img.neons.org/archives/Hydraulicvsfriction.pdf

"A mechanical timing belt tensioner is better for the engine and timing belt." - their words, not mine.

DirtMegirt
Wiki Contributor

Thank you Matt-nice clean, logical article. All you guys here are a major wealth of correct info.

Thanks for the cost difference tip and the Dodge vs Mitsu tip. Much appreciated.

Originally posted by Nemo
Thanks for the cost difference tip and the Dodge vs Mitsu tip. Much appreciated.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Thank you knidly Tim

Just do a search for "mechanical tensioner". There is loads of info on here about it! If you get it, make sure you install it right because from what I have read, most the problems with it are because of install errors.

Thanks for the insight, Tyler. Going to do that search right now.

I found a mechanical tensioner online but can't pull up the link to save my nads. It's $104.50 from Litens Automotive Group. Thaey claim to be the OEM manufacturer for Chrysler. Guess I'll go with that one.

If it's this one, that's where I got mine.

DirtMegirt
Wiki Contributor

Yep! That's it exactly. I take it you've had no problems with it. Looks like a fair price too.