Ok so heres the deal...On my home late last night, Im coming on this corner-rabbit runs across the street, I swearve to miss it...Turns out people like to water the street as well as thier grass! Im drifting 45 degrees to my right, spin back the other way, do a 360 and end up on the wrong side of the road.

I dident hit anything and luckily roads were empty. I tried to start my car, the engine would crank(normal speed and sound), but it wouldent start...I waited a few moments, looked under the hood for anything bad nothing....Got back in gave it another shot and it started. I drove home, everything seemed fine. I parked the car, this morning I go to head to work, and it wont start. Engine wont even turn. I hear a loud click and thats about it.

I tried taking a wire straight from the + bat to the starter, as I used to do when my starter switch went, I got a spark, but again no engine turn.

The lights dont dim, so I dont think its anything with the battery.

Any thoughts???

I have had friends with Fords that have some sort of emergency shut off valve for the gas tank when the vehicle experiences loads like your situation, but that really only affects fuel delivery.

I wonder if you have a loos connection at the ASD relay? Try resetting the ECU? If you didn't hit anything, it's either a wild coincidence or something electronic, imo.

I'd pull the starter and check it. Just personal opinion, but if you spun through water it's possibls that you held some up in the engine bay and when it cooled down overnight water dripped into the bendix and fried it (holy shit that's a long shot!!)
Sounds like a starter problem to me though.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

In your other (double) post you mention that you jumper straight across the starter with a piece of wire and that nothing happens and your lights don't dim.

If that is true, then your starter or starter relay must have a problem assuming the battery terminals are clean and sound. The headlights staying the same brightness indicate that little or no current is flowing through the starter.

I meant to say that ^ really I did.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

UPDATE

Ok, so I bought a new starter, put it in and same problem. I turn the key and you hear a big CLICK, but the starter is not spinning...This is now happening with the old or new starter-so I assume it must be something else.

If I push start it, it works. (but sometimes the rpms dip real low)

I can have all accessories/headlights running, and it has power-battery seems fine. (minimal dimming when trying to start)

The only anomoly, which I dont even know if its an anomoly is that thing hanging right beside the engine hook to the right of the heat shield, in all honest I dont know what it is, but if the battery is hooked up, even if its not running that thing gets dam hot. But Im still not sure even what it is-or if it should be hot.

HELP ME PLEASE!

Well, if that pipe is hot (electrically not thermally) then I'd say you found your short. Problem is, depending on how hot the wires got, you may have a harness to replace, not just a few strands of wire. But don't lose hope, 'tis a sign from the car gods that thou shalt hasten to install MegaSquirt and ye shall see that it is good! You don't live in CA do you, get rid of that EGR pipe, to hell with the CEL!

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Definitely make it a point to closely inspect the harness along the EGR pipe.

If you should end up having to inspect the bulk of the harness, don't let it intimidate you, man. Get a Sharpie marker and a roll of masking tape. You can have the bulk of the harness disconnected and lying on top of the engine in about half an hour.

Start by disconnecting the battery completely. Might as well remove it too. This will give you more room to work.

Get under the car, start at the alternator, and work your way towards the battery. Use the tape and marker to label your connections as you remove them so you know what goes where at installation time. There is a spot where the lower rear harness is clipped to one of the intake manifold support brackets. You can cut the clip entirely and just zip tie the harness back when you're done. Once you've disconnected everything on the backside, down there, you can go topside and pull that section of the harness through from where the battery sits and lay it up and out of the way.

Next, start by disconnecting the O2 sensor. I believe this is the end of that section of the harness. Begin disconnecting things there and work your way back up to the radiator cap and over the valve cover (next to the timing belt). You will then disconnect the coil pack, MAP sensor, IAT, TPS, and IAC connections. This is the bulk of that leg of the harness.

Finally, disconnect the EGR solenoid and CMP, working your way, again, back towards the battery area. You will need a socket to remove a clamp that holds the harness in place there (even the factory knows you want to keep things from touching that pipe).

At this point, you will have access to pretty much all of the harness, aside from that section that connects all of those to the fuse panel and ECU. If you're lucky, the cause of the short will stick out like a sore thumb and you'll be able to attack the problem head-on, standing up, with decent lighting so you don't fuck anything up.

I hope you don't have to go this far, but the point is to illustrate that harness removal and installation is one of the easiest parts of preparing to remove the engine and, so long as you label your connectors, you'll make quick and easy work of it. Just start at one end and begin unplugging/labeling things and you'll be fine. It's no different from hooking up your xBox.

Good luck to you.